Who is Protecting Whom?

Even if your dog is trained in bite-work or other protection sports, it’s not his job to keep other dogs away from you while you’re out and about in public. That’s your job. (Photo: A mastiff who is likely working on bite-work with a man and a woman)

This week, we’re continuing on our journey to learn more about what to do when walking our own dog on a leash and we come across off-leash dogs. 

As you know from reading last week’s post, dog ownership is a massive responsibility and there’s a LOT we need to learn as responsible dog owners. 

We need to learn how to see the world from our dog’s point of view, to better fulfill their needs. We need to understand dog body language, so we can assess situations and stay calm while doing so. We need to learn to provide leadership to our dogs, so they can trust that WE are capable of being charge when perceived threats (like off-leash dogs) are heading our way. 

The more information you have, the better prepared you’ll be. The stronger your relationship with your OWN dog, the better prepared you’ll be. 

If your dog is currently reacting to other on-leash dogs by: 

-standing in front of you

-barking and growling

-lunging on leash

-yanking you off your feet

then he currently sees it as his job to protect you. This will certainly cause problems if an off-leash dog heads toward you. 

Are you pulling back on the leash? This is sending your dog a clear signal that the other dog is a threat. All dogs have what is called opposition reflex — when someone pulls back on their leash, they automatically pull forward. This is put to good use with police canines who are taught to bite the person wearing the super padded “bad guy suit.” The police hold the dog’s harness, which stimulates that opposition reflex, allowing their working dog to get fired up at the “bad guy” before letting go. 

See how it works? 

The way most people open their front door. Just sayin’. (Photo: Person wearing army fatigues holding the collar of a German Shepherd, creating opposition reflex)

Are you accidentally sending your dog the wrong message? Are you pulling him back, telling him to get fired up at dogs, bikes, and strangers? 

Do you also get nervous when you see dogs in the neighbourhood and think: “Here we go again,”? 

Your dog will pick up on your nervous energy and act accordingly to keep the other dogs away from you. We don’t want that. It’s no fun to feel nervous all the time, and it’s super stressful for your dog to live on edge like that too. 

So, if your dog shouldn’t be in front of you pulling on the leash, where should he be? 

Great question. 

In our popular culture, we think it’s amazing when our dogs step up in front of us and protect us. In fact, a growing number of my clients have selected dogs based on wanting to feel protected. The issue is that a dog who is not bred and trained to be a protection dog isn’t happy doing this job. Oftentimes, the dogs I work with are anxious (whine almost all of the time) and are much more confident and happy when they learn that their humans are in charge (inside and outside of the home, including on walks.) 

When we invite a dog to live in our home and in the human world, it is our job to show them how to feel safe and protected. It’s our job to show them that garbage trucks are not scary, bicycles are not out to get them, and that other dogs in the neighbourhood are not threats to us. 

So, where should your dog be when there’s a perceived threat?  

Hint: The opposite of this…(Photo: A dog walks in front of her owner on a tense leash)

Behind you. 

Like this while you’re walking…(Photo: A dog heeling beside his owner, looking up at his owner while moving forward.)

Getting closer…but this picture has too much leash tension. (A person stands in the snow with their dog behind their knees. The dog is wearing a halti and there is tension on the leash.)

More like this. (Photo: a person wearing a backpack standing on a tree stump looking off into the mist. There is a dog standing behind them in a heel position. The dog is looking up to them for direction.)

It’s your job as pack leader to deal with perceived threats. Perceived threats to one dog may be strangers reaching into their personal space to pet them. To another dog, a perceived threat is the delivery person who walks onto what your dog perceives as THEIR territory. To another dog, it’s a strange object, like construction equipment, a bag of yard waste, or Christmas decorations that move and make noise. Your job is to be in front of your dog to advocate for his space and to keep danger away. 

My first opportunity to learn this lesson was a couple of decades ago. I had not yet heard of dog psychology. I was an accidental leader for my first rescue dog, because I just did what felt natural. I exercised him every day and I provided structure and boundaries and rules. Looking back, there were a lot of things I could have done better, had I known dog psychology, but Brooklyn and I did pretty well. Keep in mind, that when I owned Brooklyn, I lived, breathed, and sometimes even slept with dogs while working as a technician at the University of Guelph. I not only worked with dogs every day, I walked them in my spare time (during my lunch breaks.) Despite being surrounded by dogs 24-7, there were still LOTS of things I needed to learn. 

The first time Brooklyn stepped behind me when faced with an aggressive dog, I thought it was because he was afraid of her. I also wrongly thought: “Wow. He doesn’t want to protect me. What have I done wrong? He must not love me at all.”

I now know what it means when a dog steps behind you in the face of danger. 

What I didn’t realize back then was that I had earned Brooklyn’s TRUST and his RESPECT. When you have trust, respect, AND love, you have a balanced pack. You have harmony. And you’re actually way safer out in public, because the human is in the driver’s seat. Humans make wayyyyy better decisions than dogs. Dogs make quick, instinctual decisions to defend themselves. Hopefully after reading this, you’ll realize it’s your job to defend THEM, not the other way around. 

Brooklyn and I lived in a big house divided into five apartments. One of the apartments was home to a vet student and her newly adopted two-year-old pitbull. This beautiful, grey pit was the leader of her human. She pulled her everywhere she wanted to go and she was walked on a flexi-leash that could snap at any time. This “pull my human everywhere I want” relationship combined with leash tension created leash frustration, reactivity, and eventually aggression.

Brooklyn and I came across them on neutral territory. We were strolling down the sidewalk, and they were in a small playground. They had higher ground and were partially blocked by the play structure, so we didn’t notice them right away. The pit took one look at us and went straight into the red zone. She shot straight for us (faster than anyone could have said a prayer to the God of flexi-leashes,) barking and snarling. 

Brooklyn stepped behind my legs. I held my breath (because I didn’t have the knowledge I have now - breathe, friends, breathe!) 

The flexi-leash held, jerking the poor dog backward, and unfortunately teaching her nothing except how to be more frustrated on the leash. She stood on her hind legs snarling, growling, and barking while her owner held on for dear life. 

I’m grateful that Brooklyn believed I could handle that threat while holding nothing but a Kong-on-a-rope. He believed in me long before I believed in myself. 

Brooklyn wasn’t a chicken. He wasn’t throwing me under the bus. And there was nothing “wrong” with our relationship. Brooklyn was letting me do what I did naturally for him every day: lead. 

Brooklyn living his best life (Photo: author’s first rescue dog, Brooklyn, leaps off a dock after a ball)

A few tips so that you can lead your dog, so they can trust you in all of life’s tough situations: 

-provide exercise every day (not as much as you feel like giving them, but the amount they actually need to be mentally and physically fulfilled every day)

-teach them a structured walk (from your dog’s point of view, if you are walking in the back, you are the follower. They need a leader.) 

-wait for natural eye contact before going through doorways, up a set of stairs, and before giving any food

-build a strong foundation in the home, before falling into the “too much freedom too fast” trap 

-acknowledge the effect your own energy has on your dog

-learn everything you possibly can about the way your dog sees the world (dog psychology) 

If your dog isn’t trained as a personal protection dog (by a professional who knows what they are doing,) then it is not your dog’s job to protect you and your family. 

Will they step up in the middle of the night to an intruder? Of course they will. But should they have to feel as though they need to defend you from oncoming dogs on the street: no. 

You need to: 

-protect

-direct

-love 

Did this week stray wildly off-topic? The pitbull wasn’t off-leash, you say? 

Flexi-leads snap all the time. Leashes fly out of people’s hands all the time. A dog can go from on-leash to off-leash in an instant. There was a post in our local online dog forum this week about a dog slipping out of his collar and attacking an on-leash dog. The dog who was attacked required veterinary care. Sidebar: The dog who attacked the other dog was a Golden Retriever. I feel the need to mention this as people so often believe that certain breeds are aggressive and others are not. No dog is born aggressive. Any dog can become aggressive. Always look at the human behind the dog. 

The lessons for this week:

-It is your job to provide protection to your dog, not the other way around. 

-You should stand in front of your dog to let them know you’re in charge (and if they already know you are their leader, they will step behind you.) 

Next week: How to let an off-leash dog know they shouldn’t bother approaching you. 

Have a safe and happy weekend, Dog Leaders! 

Alyssa 

Photos by: Upsplash (A mastiff who is likely working on bite-work with a man and a woman), Altino Dantas @altinodantas (Person wearing army fatigues holding the collar of a German Shepherd, creating opposition reflex.) Upsplash (A dog walks in front of her owner on a tense leash,) Upsplash (Photo: A dog heeling beside his owner, looking up at his owner while moving forward,) Upsplash (a person wearing a backpack standing on a tree stump looking off into the mist. There is a dog standing behind them in a heel position. The dog is looking up to them for direction.) Alyssa Foulkes ( author’s first rescue dog, Brooklyn, leaps off a dock after a ball.)

Prevention is the Best Medicine for Encounters With Off-Leash Dogs

If you can read dog body language, you’ll know that this dog is feeling unsure (Photo: brown, terrier-mix lifts a front paw)

You’re walking down the sidewalk with your (on-leash) reactive rescue dog. There’s an off-leash dog up ahead. What do you do? 

Just reading that may have caused your heart to leap into your throat. For many dog owners, it’s one of their biggest fears (right after: afraid my dog will bite someone and I’ll have to put her to sleep.) 

Hop on any dog forum and you’ll see that there’s more and more people encountering off-leash dogs while walking their own dog on-leash. There’s pictures of the aftermath (I’ll spare you the bloody details) and stories about fights. 

This is a much broader topic than I ever imagined when I sat down to summarize “what to do when you come across an off-leash dog while walking your dog on-leash.” It’s so vast, that I’m actually going to break it down over several weeks. 

So, where to begin…

Straight from “The Sound of Music,” we’re going to “start at the very beginning. It’s a very good place to start.”

Now that you have a happy tune in your head, let’s begin with prevention. 

A dog who doesn’t listen to you inside your own home, will not listen to you outside the home (Weimaraner puppy gnawing on the corner of a bed,)

Prevention begins with your relationship with your dog in the home paired with your understanding of dog body language and dog psychology. Remember: if your own dog doesn’t listen to you inside your own home, it will be extremely difficult for her to listen to your direction when you’re faced with a perceived threat (like an off-leash dog coming toward you.) 

Prevention also begins with you. Being calm requires daily practice. Being a leader to your dog, requires daily practice. There are no shortcuts to a relationship built on trust, respect, and love. If you don’t have all three components, you’re going to struggle when you see an off-leash dog. 

As a dog owner, you must learn how to read dog body language. Your dog is fluent in human body language, so it’s the least you can to to understand hers. Your dog’s body language is going to tell you the intent of the off-leash dog, but don’t rely on that alone. Learn to read the body language of other breeds of dog. Some have hidden eyes, some have floppy ears, some have no tail. It’s a bigger job than you think, but when armed with how to read dog body language, you’ll figure out pretty quickly whether an off-leash dog means harm, or is simply curious. 

Becoming fluent in dog body language is the least we can do for our dogs who give us so much (Photo: Off-leash beagle with erect tail)

The first tip I can give you when you come across an off-leash dog while walking your own dog on-leash, is that you need to remain calm and assess the situation. A lot of people immediately assume the worst: this dog is gonna kill us! That thought causes panic to ripple through you, down the leash, and tells your dog there’s a threat. Most of time, that off-leash dog is simply lost. Most of the time, that dog was bored being left alone in its yard all day, and it escaped to explore the world. 

Not all dogs you come across who are off-leash want to cause harm. 

Not all off-leash dogs mean any harm (Photo: A Malamute looking like a menacing wolf)

Over the years, I’ve helped lots of off-leash, wandering pups find their way back home while out with my own dog. If I’m close enough to home, I typically return my dog to safety first, and then head back to the off-leash dog to see if I can find its home/owner. Other times, the dog has simply followed me (and my dog) home. At that time, I put my own dog inside (calmly,) and hang out with the new friend outside while I locate her owners. 

If you own a reactive dog, I’ve got you. I know what you’re thinking when I say: Not all dogs you come across who are off-leash want to cause harm. 

You’re thinking: It doesn’t matter what kind of dog is coming at me and my reactive dog, MY DOG ATTACKS EVERY DOG, no questions asked. 

The answer to this isn’t simple, because nothing about dog behaviour is simple and there are no quick fixes.

In some cases, teaching your dog to love wearing a basket muzzle can make you, the owner, feel safe because at least you know that your dog can’t cause any damage. Now you can feel more confident on your walks and you’ve at least removed ONE variable from the equation. 

You can be proactive if you have a reactive dog and work to rehabilitate them slowly in areas where there are sure to be no off-leash dogs. 

Where is this magical place? The first place is inside your home. Teach your dog how to follow you on-leash. Pulling you on-leash is a HUGE part of the reactivity you’re experiencing. The second dog-free place is your own backyard. The third place: empty parking lots. Stop setting your dog up for failure by taking her to places where you always see off-leash dogs (even if it’s not designated as off-leash, there’s always that one: “Don’t worry, she’s friendly” person. 

If you have a dog who you KNOW will not react well to off-leash dogs approaching, work to rehabilitate them in areas with no dogs. (Photo: a Frenchie in a parking lot wearing…a black and gold jacket and a tag that reads: L’il Man)

Next week, we’ll talk more about prevention, but in the meantime, be sure to read this blogpost: https://beyonddogtraining.ca/news/timing

This post talks about scanning your environment and being aware of your surroundings as you’re out and about. Everything is connected, friends. Dog leadership is an enormous and beautiful mosaic made up of hundreds of little things that MATTER. Your relationship with your dog matters. Dogs crave balanced leadership. You CAN be the balanced leader that they need. When you rise to the occasion of being a calm and balanced leader for your dog, you will be AMAZED at how WONDERFUL you feel in your day-to-day life. 

The ripple effect of adding more calmness and balance to your life is extraordinary. 

Have an awesome weekend, Dog Leaders! 

Alyssa 

Photos by: Claudio Schwarz | @purzlbaum (brown, terrier-mix lifts a front paw,) Upsplash Image (Weimaraner puppy gnawing on the corner of a bed,) Adnan Puzić @adnanpuzic (Off-leash beagle with erect tail,) Upsplash Image (A Malamute looking like a menacing wolf), Karsten Winegeart @karsten116 (a Frenchie in a parking lot/loading dock wearing…a black and gold jacket and a tag that reads: L’il Man.)

Sh*t You Won’t Learn at Puppy School

In-home puppy sessions help YOU and YOUR puppy navigate YOUR unique in-home situation (Photo: two guinea pigs munching on grated carrots)

Over the past few weeks, I’ve received a lot of calls from puppy owners who aren’t getting the results they want from puppy classes. 

“All we learned was sit, stay, and shake a paw. Literally. How do I get him to stop biting me?” 

“They showed me how to hold her collar tightly when she’s misbehaving. It riles her up and makes her growl at me. I’m afraid she’ll bite me…and my kids!” 

“I learned how to hold the leash up high in front of my face until she sits and calms down. My wife’s arms aren’t long enough to do it, so our puppy can reach and bite her during this process.” 

I’m not here to bash puppy school, but I will tell you this: you won’t learn everything you need to know, and sometimes you’ll learn things that won’t work for your dog. 

The collar hold and the “holding the leash up high (essentially choking them out) until they sit: that was shown to a family with a pitbull puppy. I would never recommend this technique to anyone, let alone if you own a bully breed. 

This technique creates conflict and adds constant pressure.

There was NO MENTION to this family of what energy THEY were bringing to that conflict-causing collar grab. They were extremely frustrated by the time they went to begin the “technique.” 

Are you accidentally building a NEGATIVE ASSOCIATION to touching your puppy’s collar? How are you going to put their leash on after off-leash play? (Photo: white pitbull mix wearing a red collar sits in a field off-leash)

Dogs will not listen to you if you are tense and frustrated. They will not listen to you if you are worried whether or not you’re doing the technique correctly while you’re in the middle doing it. 

How you are feeling 100% matters. When commanding a dog and asking him to follow your direction, you must be calm and confident. Dogs are designed to follow calm and confident leadership. It’s in their DNA. You will NEVER see a pack of feral dogs with a canine leader who is nervous, unsure, scared, tense, aggressive, unfair, or frustrated. Dogs follow BALANCED LEADERS. When we invite dogs to live with us in the human world, we take on the leadership role, OR the dog takes on the leadership role. It has to be filled. You’re a pack now. Are you the leader or are you the follower? 

Your children can learn to lead too! We LOVE teaching children to lead. It’s way more fun than being used as a chew toy! (Photo: Toddler leading a terrier on a walk)

Let’s talk about the family who learned sit, stay, and shake a paw. When we met in person, they told me, “she actually doesn’t even KNOW stay, so maybe you could show us that too.” 

This puppy is a shy, back of the pack pup. How do I know this? She shows me with her submissive peeing. Another thing they didn’t learn about in puppy school. 

First: Not all puppies go through submissive peeing. Some puppies lack confidence and are a little shy. There’s nothing wrong with this, you simply need to learn how to build confidence in your shy puppy.

Second: Talking in a high-pitched voice, moving towards your puppy too quickly, making eye contact, leaning over your puppy, reaching toward your puppy when she’s showing apprehension about your approach, and allowing strangers to pet your puppy before she is ready are all causing this submissive peeing to continue. 

Third: Most puppies will grow out of this phase, but you can speed this up by coaching your family, houseguests, and strangers on the street how to greet your puppy properly. Have them practice: no touch, no talk, no eye contact until your puppy is CALM. They should get low and allow your puppy to come to them and allow her to sniff. Just because your puppy is brave enough to move into someone's personal space, does not mean she is ready to be petted. 

Fourth: Don’t get annoyed at your puppy and the pee mess. She’s not doing it on purpose. Imagine how it must feel to feel so intimidated, shy, or fearful when strangers approach that you are scared enough to pee. Advocate on her behalf (this means educate people not to barge into her space, reaching to pet her, and talking excitedly.) If you need help speaking up, believe me, I fall into the “way too nice” category myself, try this: 

“Sorry, you can’t pet her right now. She’s in training. Thanks for asking though.” It worked for me. 

People want to pet your puppy no matter what bad behaviour they are doing. It’s okay to say NO. If you NEVER ALLOW anyone to pet your puppy while she’s putting her feet on them, you will NEVER have to correct it later with a trainer when she’s older and it’s no longer “cute.” (Photo: doodle puppy lunging excitedly toward the camera lens with her two front feet off the ground)

How to find a puppy school whose techniques will work for you and your puppy: 

1. Call and interview them on the phone. Do they call you back in a timely fashion? Are they happy to answer all of your questions?

2. Ask to go and watch their sessions BEFORE YOU ADOPT YOUR PUPPY. If they say no, and believe me, some in this area will: HUGE RED FLAG.

3. Read all of the Google Reviews

4. Ask everyone you know who has been to puppy school what they liked and what they did not like about the classes.

5. Trust your gut.

One of my clients recently reached out to puppy schools in our area. She reported that the man on the phone was rude, made her feel like she was an idiot, and basically told her that she was ruining her puppy by not having him in school yet. Needless to say, she’s not going to give that company her business. 

Take your time, shop around, and find the right fit for you and your puppy to learn and grow as a team. 

Remember: Dog training is a lifestyle. You must take the things you learn in puppy school and practice them every day at home. You must also research and read on your own and fill the gaps (if any) that the puppy school doesn’t teach you. 

Don’t focus on tricks. 

I’ve had two clients who have had dogs who can do very lovely “leave it” tricks…and their puppies were both food aggressive. 

Focus on RELATIONSHIP over tricks in the beginning. For example, teach your puppy not to pull on the leash and become your leader; teach them not to bite the leash; teach them a rock-solid recall. Teach them how to feel safe and happy when you are not at home (crate training) to prevent separation anxiety. Teach them what they are allowed to chew and what they are not allowed to chew in your home. Show them that your children are not chew toys. Teach them to be calm around food. All of these little things matter in your overall relationship. 

If you’re struggling with crate training, puppy chewing, counter surfing, sock-stealing, nipping/biting, and leash pulling, in-home puppy training will help. 

Is in-home puppy training the right option for you? Schedule your free call here: https://beyonddogtraining.ca/take-action

Remember: A dog who doesn’t listen to you inside your home will not listen to you outside the home. 

Practice. Take you time. Build a strong foundation. Learn everything you can about dog psychology. Be patient with yourself. 

And have fun! Lots and lots of fun! 

A balanced, calm puppy can learn to get along with your other pets. Schedule a free call and find out if we’re the right fit to help you improve your pet’s lives. (Photo: cat and dog snuggling on the grass)

What’s up with the guinea pigs? They’re just some of the other friends whose lives are improved with in-home training. Your puppy CAN learn to be calm around your other pets (and livestock.) We’ve helped guinea pigs, hamsters, birds, cows, alpacas, sheep, and lots and lots of cats to live in harmony with dogs. 

Have an AMAZING weekend, Dog Leaders! 

Alyssa  

Photos by: Bonnie Kittle @bonniekdesign (two guinea pigs munching on grated carrots,) Overture Creations

@overture_creations (white pitbull mix wearing a red collar sits in a field off-leash,) Upsplash image (Toddler leading a terrier on a walk,) Upsplash image (doodle puppy lunging excitedly toward the camera lens with her two front feet off the ground), Krista Mangulsone

@krista (cat and dog snuggling on the grass.)

TIMING

Timing and being aware of your surroundings are great tools to prevent having a really bad day. (Photo: chihuahua nestled in the crook of a man’s arm. The man is wearing a wristwatch. See what I did there?)

You’re hanging out with your dog off-leash. Everything seems to be going well. You’re playing a bit of fetch. Your dog is returning to you as he (almost) always does and you’re capturing a picture of him for Instagram. 

You throw the ball, your dog races after it…and in the blink of an eye, he’s 

crossing a street to visit a dog on a leash who you didn’t see coming. Bad news: that dog is reactive on the leash. You try to call your dog, but it’s too late. There’s no way he’ll come back now. The owner is screaming at you, putting tension on her leash, and now there’s a dog fight. 

Your dog may not find other dogs distracting. Perhaps it’s people on bikes? Joggers? Squirrels? Cats?

We’ve talked about recall a lot, but we haven’t talked about timing and it’s REALLY IMPORTANT. 

There’s no worse feeling than seeing your dog running full tilt toward something that could hurt him (Photo: a bull terrier runs across a field)

The leader of any pack of dogs is ALWAYS scanning the environment for threats.

When you play fetch with your dog, you’re tapping into your dog’s natural instinct to chase prey. The two of you are a pack, and hopefully, YOU are the leader of your pack. This makes it YOUR job to scan 360 degrees and be aware of things that could possibly set your dog up for a negative experience (runs headfirst into another dog who is aggressive and gets into a fight), a deadly experience (bites a child and needs to be put to sleep; runs in front of a car; or eats something that kills him,) or sets the general public up for a negative experience (jumps on a jogger who is TERRIFIED of dogs.)   

Her thumb’s up day turns into a thumb’s down day if your dog bites her (Photo: woman jogging giving a thumb’s up)

BEFORE you throw the ball, you should be aware of your surroundings. If there’s a kid on a bike coming and your dog chases bikes, recall your dog (leash them if you have to) and wait until the child goes by before throwing the ball again. 

Clients always ask me: “How do I scan around and not get super stressed out. I feel like I’m on guard/on edge all the time.” 

I answer: “You’re scanning the area to keep your dog safe. There’s nothing to be afraid or panicked about. Just look around calmly. Don’t overthink it.”

Look. Owning a dog is a HUGE responsibility. It’s your job to teach your dog how to overcome all of his behavioural issues BEFORE unclipping the leash in a public place. If you don’t know how to rehabilitate your dog’s behavioural issues (fear of cars, aggressive to dogs and people, chases ATVs/farm equipment) find a trainer who can help you. 

If you know your dog doesn’t have perfect recall, you need to teach it to them for their own safety. Not to mention the safety of the public. How AWFUL do you feel when your dog knocks a little kid off his bike? Scares a jogger by jumping up on them? Body checks your mother or grandmother and she breaks her hip? You don’t need that kind of stress in your life, so be aware of your surroundings. 

There are some dogs who may arrive to the park while you’re there playing fetch with your dog who your dog doesn’t get along with. TIMING! Don’t risk a dog fight, so that you can play five more minutes of fetch. Clip on the leash and go BEFORE this off-leash dog sprints up into your dog’s face after you’ve already leashed up. Anticipate. You’re a Dog Leader now. Make quick decisions that benefit your dog and your own mental health. Advocate for your dog’s space. 

When you leave the park, don’t spend time being annoyed that you missed out on five minutes of fetch. There’s plenty of other things to work on on the leash to tire your dog out MENTALLY. This is your opportunity to teach your dog to walk nicely on the leash (aren’t you tired of joint pain?) 

Aren’t you tired of joint pain? (Photo: Woman being pulled/dragged forward by a Mastiff on a leash)

Remember: I’m not asking you to go be that one meerkat at the zoo who is on patrol (so adorable!) I’m suggesting that when you’re more aware of your surroundings, you can keep your pack safe and time your recall BEFORE your dog is too distracted to obey.

I’m not asking you to be a meerkat, but if you were, we’d be friends. (Photo: meerkat standing on a rock)

Every day won’t be perfect, but most days are pretty awesome. 

Celebrate those great moments with your dog. 

Have an awesome weekend, Dog Leaders! 

Alyssa 

Photos by: Angelina Litvin @linalitvina (chihuahua nestled in the crook of a man’s arm. The man is wearing a wristwatch. See what I did there?), UpSplash image (a bull terrier runs across a field), andrew dinh

@andrewdinh (woman jogging giving a thumb’s up,) Upsplash image (Woman being pulled by a Mastiff on a leash), Tim L. Productions @timlontano (meerkat standing on a rock.)

PUPPY BITING BLUES

Is your puppy using you as a chew toy? (Photo: black and tan puppy chewing a blade of grass with a fantastic snarl on his face)

Puppy teeth are sharp. 

Puppies bite fingers, arms, noses, and feet. And it HURTS! 

One of the biggest mistakes I see new puppy owners making is keeping their puppy awake for two or three hours at a time. It’s too long. Puppies need a lot of sleep and they get extra mouthy when they are tired. You may notice that you’ve become a chew toy (OUCH!) or that your puppy is chewing up mulch, sticks, and leaves like they’ll never have the chance again. These are signs that your puppy needs a nap. 

If you aren’t training them, playing with them, or actively engaging with them, they should be sleeping in their crate. 

At 16 weeks of age, Braxton had never calmed down or napped in his crate - he SCREAMED! He was on medication that wasn’t helping. I’m so happy his owner found me :) (Photo: Braxton, a brindle bulldog puppy, asleep in his crate for the first time)

Another big mistake new puppy owners make is hanging out on the couch with their puppy all morning long. This teaches your puppy that they should ALWAYS be touching you. This is how to CREATE separation anxiety. Believe me, you don’t want it. And your puppy certainly doesn’t want to feel that stress either. Prevent it now, while you have the chance. Use your crate for short, positive, fun sessions. Teach your puppy that going in there for naps is no big deal, and that if you leave, you’ll always come back. 

Thank me six months from now when you’re out doing groceries and you’re NOT worried about your puppy. She’s home in her crate napping, and you’re out and about getting things done. 

I get calls all the time about puppies who are “coming at me” and “biting nonstop.” These people have puncture wounds all over their hands, bite marks on their feet, and bruises on their arms and legs. 

Some of them share with me: “I’m actually SCARED of my puppy.” 

Most of them have tried redirecting with toys, but that is only one tool you should have in your toolbox. 

Redirecting with toys only takes you so far (Photo: black and white terrier puppy biting a yellow toy pig)

During our in-home puppy sessions, we will teach you many strategies to prevent you from becoming a chew toy. 

Schedule your free call today and find out if we’re the right fit for each other. 

Until then, get up and get moving. Engage with your puppy. Provide them with learning opportunities (teach them to LOVE their crate, how to be CALM around food, how to walk nicely on a leash.)

Provide DIRECTION. By leading the way and not sitting back, you’ll be in control of what activity is happening next. When your puppy dictates YOUR movements, you’ll end up with a demand-barker who controls you with their mouth. As your puppy grows into a dog, barks get louder and teeth get bigger. Decide who you want to live with: a well-behaved dog who is a joy to be around, or a holy terror who herds your children, steals food off your counter, and barks at everyone who walks by your house. The decision is yours to make. 

Living with dogs should be a joy. 

Living with dogs should be a joy (Photo: Magic, the author’s Rottweiler swims toward shore holding her favourite ball. She is wearing a red life jacket.)

Happy training! 

Have a wonderful weekend, Dog Leaders!
Alyssa 

Photos by: Daniel Lincoln @danny_lincoln (black and tan puppy chewing a blade of grass with a fantastic snarl on his face,) Alyssa Foulkes (Braxton, a brindle bulldog puppy, asleep in his crate for the first time,) Justin Veenema @justinveenema (black and white terrier puppy biting a yellow toy pig,) Alyssa Foulkes (Magic, the author’s Rottweiler swims toward shore holding her favourite ball. She is wearing a red life jacket.)

How Are You?

(Photo: person sitting at the end of a dock, surrounded by water, mountains, and a blue sky)

How are you? 

How are you, really? 

This is SO IMPORTANT and often never discussed in the dog training world. 

YOU MATTER. 

How you are feeling matters.  

I hope you’re feeling well. If you’re not, let’s acknowledge that together right now. 

How are you feeling in THIS moment? 

Nervous? Tense? Frustrated? Fed up? Sad? Worried? 

What do you do to overcome your stress? (Photo: woman wearing a black tank top and a surgical mask holds her head, as though it aches)

It’s okay to feel these things. It’s important to acknowledge HOW we are feeling and then to try to take a small step toward feeling better. 

Move a pebble, not a mountain. Bit by bit, you’ll get there.

I find this statement helps my clients move forward on their path to wellness

“Right now, I’m feeling _____. I would like to feel more calm.” 

Now, what makes YOU feel calm? Is it sitting in a quiet room and taking ten deep breaths (the kind where your belly and your chest both move)? Is it petting your cat? Is it playing an instrument? Is it taking a walk? Looking at your garden? 

Being in nature brings calmness to many people. What brings you calmness? (Photo: sunrise over the mountains)

Take some time to learn about yourself.

Your emotional well-being is crucial to your relationship with your dog. 

Read. 

That.

Twice. 

Your dog is your mirror. They reflect the energy that you emit. 

You’ve seen this in action. Your dog gets SUPER excited when your family comes over (because you’re super excited to see your family.) Sometimes, your well-behaved dog also forgets his manners at this moment and jumps up. That’s excitement. And before your family arrived, everyone was calmly hanging out in the living room. 

Maybe you’ve noticed this: You’re hanging out in your kitchen re-telling a story about something that really pissed you off. Someone tailgated you on the way home, or your boss was super nasty today. Your dog, who was calmly laying down, is now pacing around you, unsure of why your energy is so off. 

Dogs are amazing teachers. They remind us daily to be calm, confident, and joyful. 

In Ontario, we made it out of lockdown for what felt like two minutes, before being locked down again. It was only a few days later that our provincial government changed their mind and issued a stay-at-home order instead. This is a time of unprecedented stress. Please be kind to yourselves right now. Take five minutes a day to think about the people and animals you are grateful for and to tell yourself that you CAN get through this. Then, take that positive energy and apply it to your dog walk.  

Call your dog calmly and with confidence. Set a small goal. If your dog has never worn a leash before and is a bit shy, that goal may be to teach them there’s nothing to be afraid of. 

Set small, achievable goals for each training session (Photo: Corgi puppy sitting on a hardwood floor)

If your dog is reactive: I’m going to walk him on-leash in the house for five minutes and teach him to follow me. 

If you have a new puppy: I’m going to teach my puppy how to walk on a leash today. Start small. Start inside with less distractions around. And have fun doing it! 

If your dog barks in the backyard: I’m going to go out into the yard for every bathroom break today and I’m going to use the leash to help me. 

If your dog won’t come to you when you pick up the leash: I’m going to work on recall in my home today. My dog’s going to wear a long line, so he can’t ignore me. For more information on long lines: https://beyonddogtraining.ca/news/long-lines

Every moment of every day is a chance for you to develop an amazing relationship with YOURSELF. When you treat yourself with compassion, you’ll be able to treat others with compassion. This includes your dog. 

Patience. Compassion. Positive self-speak.

You can do this. I believe in you. 

Have a wonderful weekend, Dog Leaders.
Alyssa 

Photos by: Simon Migaj @simonmigaj (person sitting at the end of a dock, surrounded by water, mountains, and a sunset,) engin akyur @enginakyurt (woman wearing a black tank top and a surgical mask holds her head, as though it aches,) Vincentiu Solomon @vincentiu (sunrise over the mountains.) Brandon Cormier

@ghosttrooper (Corgi puppy sitting on a hardwood floor,)

Long Lines

This is a leash. Long lines are usually 15 feet long (or longer) Who could resist this adorable photo?!

(Photo: terrier chases a ball while wearing a blue harness and a long line)

A long line is a lightweight, long leash which is often used in off-leash training. They range from 15 feet to roughly 30 feet and usually have no handle (which prevents them from getting caught on shrubs and tree roots.) 

I’ve been researching long lines this month and thought it would be valuable to share what I’ve learned with you. 

First of all, I’ve never owned a long line. To teach recall, I’ve always used a combination of indoor practice (on and off leash), outdoor practice on leash, play (fetch), and because I like to save money, tying two leashes together to make a makeshift long line. 

I absolutely love research, so I’ve been reading about long lines all month. 

Here’s what I’ve learned from Canadian dog lovers and trainers around the globe. 

To DIY or not DIY? That is the question. (Photo: a dirty, braided rope snagged on a log)

Long lines range in price, quality, and fabric. We’re going to dive into the pros and cons of the different fabrics, so that you can choose the option that works best for you and your dog. 

NYLON: 

You can get nylon long lines at Dollarama. While they are obviously not going to last as long or be as well-made as some options, they have great reviews from people with dogs weighing under twenty pounds. 

Drawbacks: The clips are not as strong. The lines are not easy to clean when they get wet/muddy etc. The nylon tends to attract burrs and other debris. 

You can buy nylon long lines with better clips from most pet stores for around $30 CAD + HST. 

Nylon gets wet, dirty, and can attract burrs and debris (Photo: poodle wearing a red nylon leash)

BIOTHANE: 

BioThane® is the brand name of all coated webbing products made by BioThane Coated Webbing Corp. It’s basically a polyester webbing with a TPU or PVC coating that makes it more durable, waterproof, easy to clean and even weldable. BioThane® has suddenly become the go-to choice for dog collars, leashes, and even long lines. It comes in lots of bright, fun colours making it very popular with dog owners. 

On the high end, you can purchase a 20 foot BioThane® long line for $60 CAD + HST.

There are more cost effective BioThane® long line options. Hunting stores sell BioThane® long lines which are interestingly cylindrical rather than flat. Made for dogs who run through the brush during long hunting trials, you know they’ll work for you and your dog on any trail. They also roll up small enough to fit in a coat pocket. A 20 foot long line from Canadian Gun Dog Supply costs $30 CAD + HST. 

Biothane is easier to clean and comes in a wide selection of colours (Photo: Dachshund wearing a turquoise collar and leash)

DIY (MAINLY MADE OF ROPE): I love a good DIY and thought that this would definitely be the option for me, until I read all of the reviews online. Many people head to the local hardware store to make their own long lines. While this will certainly save you money, many of the ropes will easily snag on brush and trees. Long lines made from rope also attract burrs and tend to get tangled, causing dog owners to get very frustrated.

Rope tends to attract burrs as well as getting tangled and dirty (Photo: dirty, fraying rope)

HORSE LUNGE LINES: 

Horse lunge lines are also very popular with dog owners. They are often cheaper than nylon long lines sold in pet stores and have high quality clips. 

They fall short in the easy-to-clean category and also tend to get tangled. 

If you don’t mind untangling things, you can get a horse lunge line for approximately $10-20 CAD + HST. 

Horse lunge lines are an outside-the-box affordable option (Photo: two women stand with a horse and dog (both on lead)

After reading about all of the tangled lines, burrs, and wet/muddy lines, I opted for BioThane® for my long line. Hunters spend long hours in the bush in all sorts of weather. If it’s strong enough to stand up to a gun dog racing through the brush, it’ll be strong enough for dog training.

PARACHUTE CORD: Parachute cord is wonderful for the final stages of transitioning your dog to off-leash life. It is so lightweight that your dog will feel as though he’s truly off-leash, but you have the ability to control him (he just doesn’t know it.) 

Parachute cord needs to be stepped on, rather than grabbed with your hand. If you tie knots in the cord every few feet, it will be easier for your shoe to actually catch the cord as it moves along the ground. 

You can purchase 50 feet of parachute cord for $7 + HST at Home Depot. You’ll want to buy bolt snaps so that you can easily attach it to your dog’s collar. At Home Depot they are sold in two packs and cost $3.95 + HST. 

Canadian Tire and Home Depot have both stopped selling rope on spools. That’s why my price is for 50 feet of parachute cord — it’s prepackaged (at Home Depot) and only comes in one length.  

Canadian Tire doesn’t sell parachute cord in their stores at this time. 

I had to include this because I love slack-lining :) This is not parachute cord. (Photo: a person slack-lining over a canyon)

A quick note on safety: 

I would not recommend leaving a long line on your dog while on an off-leash hike where they may get snagged or tangled with other dogs who you don’t know. Instead, use a long line to train reliable off-leash recall in your home, backyard, or empty field. 

The take home message is that long lines are for TRAINING not for passively allowing your dog to race through the bush tangling up every dog they meet along the way. Tangled dogs and leash tension start fights. Be safe out there.  

Have a safe and happy weekend, Dog Leaders. Remember to keep enjoying the things you CAN do (walking your dog, training your dog, reading, exercising etc,) rather than focusing on the next lockdown. 

For those of you who don’t know, Ontario is heading into another lockdown, beginning on Saturday, April 3, 2021.

Keep shining your lights and spreading kindness, friends. We’ll get through this. 

Alyssa 

Photos by: Aaron Clinard @aaronclinard (terrier chases a ball while wearing a blue harness and a long line,) vijay s @thevijayragav (a dirty, braided rope snagged on a log,) Bianca Ackermann

@biancablah (poodle wearing a red nylon leash,) William Fonteneau

@williamfntn (Photo: Dachshund wearing a turquoise collar and leash,) Nick Wood

@thewhitewood (dirty, fraying rope,) courtney coles

@kernieflakes (two women stand with a horse and dog (both on lead,) Loic Leray

@loicleray (a person slack lining over a canyon.)

Mud!

Dog owners know that March means mud! Every household has their own mud protocol. Some of us put towels down on top of our runner mats, to collect the muddy rivers that flow off our dogs. Others head to the pet store to try out a new mud mat or gadget. No matter what you do, there’s extra laundry and mopping in the spring…right?!

After your puppy sprints through your house leaving muddy footprints everywhere…

There’s not much we can do about the amount of muddy dog towels heading to the laundry, but what if I told you a secret to help you keep that mop in the closet?

Let’s get started! 

There are four basic commands you can teach your dog right now to get them to stand still while they get their feet wiped. There’s also an ADORABLE trick that you can teach them, so that they can wipe their feet themselves!

1. Sit

2. Stay

3. Paw ( I could make this really cute, and use “Shake” instead of “Paw,” but I have a command for outside that I call “Shake” for getting Magic to shake off all the excess water, as she would getting out of a lake or after having a bath.) 

4. Stand

I know, you may be overwhelmed and reaching for that mop bucket right about now. You’re thinking: “Four commands?? Plus teach my dog to shake the excess water from her fur AND wipe HER OWN feet?!” Thud.  

Don’t worry! Focus on a rock-solid sit (where you ask your dog to sit and she stays sitting until released.) Add in the other commands at your own pace. Dog training is a marathon - not a sprint.

Young or old, any dog can learn to sit.

How to Teach Your Dog to Sit: 

      Most dogs and new puppies will naturally lift their chin and sit down when you stand in front of them and raise your hand up above their head. 

      Step 1: Stand in front of your dog, so you are facing them.

      Step 2: Say their name or make a kissy noise, so that their attention is on you. 

Make sure you have your dog’s attention, like this.

Not this…

      Step 3: If you like, hold a treat in your hand for this step. When your dog is sniffing your hand, lift your hand up and toward them. This encourages their chin to tip up and their bum to lower into a sitting position. As soon as their bum hits the floor, feed them the treat and say “Good sit.”

You need to reward dogs within a SECOND, so timing is EVERYTHING. 

Client Question: “How many sits should I ask my new puppy to do?”

Beyond Dog Training’s Reply: “The first day you teach sit, try it about five to seven times. After that, move on to something else. You could play, go for a walk, or work through the other commands that your dog already knows. ALWAYS end on a HIGH note.”

Keep training sessions short and positive. After all that mental stimulation, your puppy or dog may need a nice long nap.

PRO TIP: ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS say “Good sit,” when your dog gives you a good sit. Your words, positivity, smile, and even petting your dog for a great sit become your dog’s reward once you phase out the food.

Phasing out the food rewards will help keep your dog at a healthy weight, minimize the risk for painful knee surgeries down the road, and ensure that your best friend will still listen to you on the days you forget to bring your treat pouch. 

Once your dog knows how to sit on command, you can ask them to sit while you wipe off some of that mud!

For a VERY special tip on When to Teach Your New Rescue Dog to Sit, please scroll down and SUBSCRIBE. I will be sending a special tip for special rescue cases to the subscriber list this week! 

Thanks for reading! Happy Spring, Dog Leaders!

Alyssa

Photos by: Janet Smith-Roberts (muddy legs,) Adli Wahid (six-moppers-mopping,) Sandra Tilkeridisová (dog sitting down,) Victor Grabarczyk (Jack Russel mix,) Ash Goldsbrough (husky with eyes closed,) NeONBRAND (white dog being petted,) Ayla Verschueren (dog with computer.)

Muzzle Up

There’s a lot of different reasons why dogs wear muzzles (Photo: black dog wearing a bright orange basket muzzle)

There are so many reasons to use muzzles.

First, the obvious one: keeping veterinarians and veterinary technicians safe.  One of my very dear friends (a veterinarian) was bitten this week. Three out of four canines sunk into her forearm, which required a trip to the ER and IV antibiotics. There’s swelling, redness, bruising, and pain. 

Muzzle training isn’t your vet’s job. In fact, it’s far more stressful on your dog if she needs to be muzzled at the vet’s office. Typically, the vets don’t have time to slowly introduce the muzzle in a positive way. They have a staff to protect and a waiting room packed with other clients. 

You can make the time to slowly train your dog to love wearing a muzzle. It’s a great proactive step to preventing future stress in your beloved dog. You never know when they may need to wear a muzzle at the vet — even the sweetest dog may bite if they are badly injured. 

Even the sweetest dog may bite if they are injured (Photo: Golden Retriever holding a pink flower in its mouth)

Before we get to the “how to,” let’s talk about some other great reasons for muzzles. 

The people in our local dog forum have been struggling with life-threatening issues, costly vet bills, and in one case, loss of their beloved dog. Two of the most-talked about topics are: 

1. Tainted meat left on local trails (one sample contained antifreeze)

2. THC toxicity in dogs

Some of the affected dogs have been on-leash and some have been off-leash.

If your dog is the type to gobble up everything in her path while on (or off) leash, you could consider muzzle training to literally save her life. Some muzzles are not designed to prevent this type of nibbling, quite the opposite, actually, so do your homework when you’re shopping around and get the right kind. Read the reviews. 

It’s also worth noting that not all muzzles are built to last. It’s worth the extra money to invest in a good one. 

Muzzles are also beneficial for dogs who are terrified of the vet. If your dog bites first and asks questions later, slowly training her to enjoy wearing a muzzle can help her get a full veterinary exam. A “full” exam, you ask? If the vet can’t get a close look at your dog, she may not be able to get a blood sample, or take a close look at the bottoms of her itchy paws. Help your vet out (and your dog) and muzzle train your pup. 

Other benefits? You betcha! 

If your dog is fearful of strangers who constantly invade her space and try to pet her (without asking), wearing a muzzle will certainly keep people (and their flexi-leashed dogs) away from you. If you struggle to advocate for your dog’s space (because you’re like the rest of us: raised to be sooo darn polite that you’d never want to put someone else out) muzzle training can do the talking for you :) 

Muzzles help buy your shy, fearful rescue dog space (Photo: a grey dog being petted on top of his head)

A lot of owners say that their worst fear is that their dog bites someone and has to be put down. They feel a LOT better walking muzzled dog because it takes that fear away. Guess what! It also makes the owner feel more confident, so they can develop their dog leadership skills. Win-Win! 

Let’s show compassion to the next person we see who is walking a dog with a muzzle. They are likely protecting their dog’s life. Be kind. 

Sometimes we have to unlearn the things we learned to create space for new information. 

Tips on muzzle training: 

DO list: 

-measure your dog according the the guidelines for the type of muzzle you are buying

-take your time

-introduce the muzzle calmly and allow your dog to smell it before even beginning to try it on

-reward them calmly (“Good girl,”) simply for investigating it (sniffing it)

-use tiny treats to encourage your dog to move forward into the muzzle

-keep sessions very short and super positive

DO NOT list: 

-do not quickly try it out in the middle of a busy pet store

-do not rush

-do not use baby talk

-do not move the muzzle toward the dog, the dog should come forward into the muzzle

-do not do it up on the first session, just get them used to putting their cute snoot in and out for treats

Always take your time when working with your dog. 

If you’re nervous, anxious, or scared about doing it wrong, bring in a professional to help you out. You’ll learn a lot and have fun doing it. 

Have a wonderful weekend, Dog Leaders! 

Alyssa 

Photos by: Annie Spratt @anniespratt (black dog wearing a bright orange basket muzzle,) Celine Sayuri Tagami @celine_sayuri (Golden Retriever holding a pink flower in its mouth,) Simone Dalmeri @simone_dalmeri (a grey dog being petted on top of his head,)

HOW TO INTRODUCE YOUR DOG TO YOUR NEW HOME: PART 2

Is your dog ready for moving day? (Photo: small dog stands on grass in front of a house)

Are you moving soon? If so, you’re most likely stressed out. If you want to know how to keep yourself and your dog stress-free leading up to moving day, check out last week’s blog: https://beyonddogtraining.ca/news/how-to-introduce-your-dog-to-your-new-home-part-1

If you’re worried about how your dog will react to your new home, you’re in the right place. 

Will your dog be stressed out on moving day? Do they hate car rides? Is the only place they’ve ever been their own backyard (and the veterinarian?) What about the new home? Do you feel badly because you’ve downsized and are afraid they might miss their yard? Are you super excited to introduce your dog to the new swimming pool, but kind of scared because they don’t really know how to swim? 

You want your dog to feel happy and relaxed on moving day. A lot of people think that talking in a high-pitched voice and tossing treats into the backseat like strange confetti, will make their dog feel at ease. This actually has the opposite effect, by making an excited dog more excited and a fearful dog more confused and afraid. 

Talking in a high-pitched voice may make you feel better, but it doesn’t help your dog feel calm (Photo: Pomeranian with whale eye)

Here are a few steps to make moving day easier on everyone: 

1. EXERCISE - Your dog needs daily exercise and so do you. Take a structured walk first thing in the morning on moving day. What’s a structured walk?  In a nutshell, a structured walk looks like this: You lead the way, your dog follows beside/slightly behind you, and you allow them to take sniff breaks, bathroom breaks, and bounce-around-chasing-butterfly breaks. Read more here: https://beyonddogtraining.ca/news/give-your-dog-a-break

2. BREATHE - Your dog picks up your vibe. If you’re sitting in the front seat worrying about traffic, unpacking, and whether or not your dog will eat dinner in the new house or not, your dog will sense your nervousness and happily take over the leadership role in your relationship. This could look like: herding the children when you reach your destination, barking at strangers and dogs who come over to the house to meet you, or chasing the cat all over the new apartment. Not cool. Try to enjoy the car ride — unroll the windows and breathe the fresh air, listen to music, or play a fun game with your kids. 

Relax and enjoy the ride. Your calm energy will be passed along to your dog. (Photo: woman in the passenger seat with her head and arm stretching out of the window)

3. WALK - When you arrive to your new home, walk your dog around the property and the neighbourhood. This allows them to burn off energy from the car ride and to be introduced to their new environment calmly. 

Walk your dog BEFORE introducing them to your new house (Photo: person walking a white French Bulldog in front of a bright yellow house)

4. FIRST - It’s not a race, but you need to enter the house first. Dogs view the world differently than we do. 

5. CALM and CONFIDENT - The easiest way for your dog to feel calm and secure about moving day is for everyone in his human family to be calm and confident. The quote from the Navy Seals: “Calm breeds calm, panic breeds panic,” may help you to visualize the situation. If I walk into an elevator and begin pacing, acting nervous, and wringing my hands together, how will you feel? Panicked. If instead, I walk into the elevator and give you a confident smile, nod my head, and mind my own business, you will feel calm. Your dog is a master of reading your moods and feelings. Work hard to find happiness and balance in your life, and then watch your dog’s behaviour adjust like magic in front of your eyes.  

Calm breeds calm (Photo: Yellow Lab relaxes on his owner’s legs.)

If you’re stressed out because your dog barks at everyone who walks by your current house, guards the fence in the backyard like a police dog, and won’t get off the couch when you ask them to, there’s still hope. Leadership doesn’t happen overnight. If you’re moving and want to prepare yourself, your family, and your dog for this big change, call a dog behaviourist and begin working on any issues you and your dog are currently facing at least two months in advance of the move.

Any behaviourist or trainer worth their salt will help you gain the leadership role in your household before you move, and equip you with a game-day strategy for moving day that works best for your unique lifestyle. 

We hope that you enjoy moving day and that you have fun exploring your new neighbourhood with your dog. 

Alyssa

Photos by: Natalia Shiel (small dog stands on grass in front of a house,) Michelle Tresemer (Pomeranian with whale eye,) averie woodard (woman in the passenger seat with her head and arm stretching out of the window,) Harry Cunningham (person walking a white French Bulldog in front of a bright yellow house,) and Taylor Kopel (yellow lab relaxes on his owner’s legs.)

Last updated: March 12, 2021