Sh*t You Won’t Learn at Puppy School

In-home puppy sessions help YOU and YOUR puppy navigate YOUR unique in-home situation (Photo: two guinea pigs munching on grated carrots)

Over the past few weeks, I’ve received a lot of calls from puppy owners who aren’t getting the results they want from puppy classes. 

“All we learned was sit, stay, and shake a paw. Literally. How do I get him to stop biting me?” 

“They showed me how to hold her collar tightly when she’s misbehaving. It riles her up and makes her growl at me. I’m afraid she’ll bite me…and my kids!” 

“I learned how to hold the leash up high in front of my face until she sits and calms down. My wife’s arms aren’t long enough to do it, so our puppy can reach and bite her during this process.” 

I’m not here to bash puppy school, but I will tell you this: you won’t learn everything you need to know, and sometimes you’ll learn things that won’t work for your dog. 

The collar hold and the “holding the leash up high (essentially choking them out) until they sit: that was shown to a family with a pitbull puppy. I would never recommend this technique to anyone, let alone if you own a bully breed. 

This technique creates conflict and adds constant pressure.

There was NO MENTION to this family of what energy THEY were bringing to that conflict-causing collar grab. They were extremely frustrated by the time they went to begin the “technique.” 

Are you accidentally building a NEGATIVE ASSOCIATION to touching your puppy’s collar? How are you going to put their leash on after off-leash play? (Photo: white pitbull mix wearing a red collar sits in a field off-leash)

Dogs will not listen to you if you are tense and frustrated. They will not listen to you if you are worried whether or not you’re doing the technique correctly while you’re in the middle doing it. 

How you are feeling 100% matters. When commanding a dog and asking him to follow your direction, you must be calm and confident. Dogs are designed to follow calm and confident leadership. It’s in their DNA. You will NEVER see a pack of feral dogs with a canine leader who is nervous, unsure, scared, tense, aggressive, unfair, or frustrated. Dogs follow BALANCED LEADERS. When we invite dogs to live with us in the human world, we take on the leadership role, OR the dog takes on the leadership role. It has to be filled. You’re a pack now. Are you the leader or are you the follower? 

Your children can learn to lead too! We LOVE teaching children to lead. It’s way more fun than being used as a chew toy! (Photo: Toddler leading a terrier on a walk)

Let’s talk about the family who learned sit, stay, and shake a paw. When we met in person, they told me, “she actually doesn’t even KNOW stay, so maybe you could show us that too.” 

This puppy is a shy, back of the pack pup. How do I know this? She shows me with her submissive peeing. Another thing they didn’t learn about in puppy school. 

First: Not all puppies go through submissive peeing. Some puppies lack confidence and are a little shy. There’s nothing wrong with this, you simply need to learn how to build confidence in your shy puppy.

Second: Talking in a high-pitched voice, moving towards your puppy too quickly, making eye contact, leaning over your puppy, reaching toward your puppy when she’s showing apprehension about your approach, and allowing strangers to pet your puppy before she is ready are all causing this submissive peeing to continue. 

Third: Most puppies will grow out of this phase, but you can speed this up by coaching your family, houseguests, and strangers on the street how to greet your puppy properly. Have them practice: no touch, no talk, no eye contact until your puppy is CALM. They should get low and allow your puppy to come to them and allow her to sniff. Just because your puppy is brave enough to move into someone's personal space, does not mean she is ready to be petted. 

Fourth: Don’t get annoyed at your puppy and the pee mess. She’s not doing it on purpose. Imagine how it must feel to feel so intimidated, shy, or fearful when strangers approach that you are scared enough to pee. Advocate on her behalf (this means educate people not to barge into her space, reaching to pet her, and talking excitedly.) If you need help speaking up, believe me, I fall into the “way too nice” category myself, try this: 

“Sorry, you can’t pet her right now. She’s in training. Thanks for asking though.” It worked for me. 

People want to pet your puppy no matter what bad behaviour they are doing. It’s okay to say NO. If you NEVER ALLOW anyone to pet your puppy while she’s putting her feet on them, you will NEVER have to correct it later with a trainer when she’s older and it’s no longer “cute.” (Photo: doodle puppy lunging excitedly toward the camera lens with her two front feet off the ground)

How to find a puppy school whose techniques will work for you and your puppy: 

1. Call and interview them on the phone. Do they call you back in a timely fashion? Are they happy to answer all of your questions?

2. Ask to go and watch their sessions BEFORE YOU ADOPT YOUR PUPPY. If they say no, and believe me, some in this area will: HUGE RED FLAG.

3. Read all of the Google Reviews

4. Ask everyone you know who has been to puppy school what they liked and what they did not like about the classes.

5. Trust your gut.

One of my clients recently reached out to puppy schools in our area. She reported that the man on the phone was rude, made her feel like she was an idiot, and basically told her that she was ruining her puppy by not having him in school yet. Needless to say, she’s not going to give that company her business. 

Take your time, shop around, and find the right fit for you and your puppy to learn and grow as a team. 

Remember: Dog training is a lifestyle. You must take the things you learn in puppy school and practice them every day at home. You must also research and read on your own and fill the gaps (if any) that the puppy school doesn’t teach you. 

Don’t focus on tricks. 

I’ve had two clients who have had dogs who can do very lovely “leave it” tricks…and their puppies were both food aggressive. 

Focus on RELATIONSHIP over tricks in the beginning. For example, teach your puppy not to pull on the leash and become your leader; teach them not to bite the leash; teach them a rock-solid recall. Teach them how to feel safe and happy when you are not at home (crate training) to prevent separation anxiety. Teach them what they are allowed to chew and what they are not allowed to chew in your home. Show them that your children are not chew toys. Teach them to be calm around food. All of these little things matter in your overall relationship. 

If you’re struggling with crate training, puppy chewing, counter surfing, sock-stealing, nipping/biting, and leash pulling, in-home puppy training will help. 

Is in-home puppy training the right option for you? Schedule your free call here: https://beyonddogtraining.ca/take-action

Remember: A dog who doesn’t listen to you inside your home will not listen to you outside the home. 

Practice. Take you time. Build a strong foundation. Learn everything you can about dog psychology. Be patient with yourself. 

And have fun! Lots and lots of fun! 

A balanced, calm puppy can learn to get along with your other pets. Schedule a free call and find out if we’re the right fit to help you improve your pet’s lives. (Photo: cat and dog snuggling on the grass)

What’s up with the guinea pigs? They’re just some of the other friends whose lives are improved with in-home training. Your puppy CAN learn to be calm around your other pets (and livestock.) We’ve helped guinea pigs, hamsters, birds, cows, alpacas, sheep, and lots and lots of cats to live in harmony with dogs. 

Have an AMAZING weekend, Dog Leaders! 

Alyssa  

Photos by: Bonnie Kittle @bonniekdesign (two guinea pigs munching on grated carrots,) Overture Creations

@overture_creations (white pitbull mix wearing a red collar sits in a field off-leash,) Upsplash image (Toddler leading a terrier on a walk,) Upsplash image (doodle puppy lunging excitedly toward the camera lens with her two front feet off the ground), Krista Mangulsone

@krista (cat and dog snuggling on the grass.)

TIMING

Timing and being aware of your surroundings are great tools to prevent having a really bad day. (Photo: chihuahua nestled in the crook of a man’s arm. The man is wearing a wristwatch. See what I did there?)

You’re hanging out with your dog off-leash. Everything seems to be going well. You’re playing a bit of fetch. Your dog is returning to you as he (almost) always does and you’re capturing a picture of him for Instagram. 

You throw the ball, your dog races after it…and in the blink of an eye, he’s 

crossing a street to visit a dog on a leash who you didn’t see coming. Bad news: that dog is reactive on the leash. You try to call your dog, but it’s too late. There’s no way he’ll come back now. The owner is screaming at you, putting tension on her leash, and now there’s a dog fight. 

Your dog may not find other dogs distracting. Perhaps it’s people on bikes? Joggers? Squirrels? Cats?

We’ve talked about recall a lot, but we haven’t talked about timing and it’s REALLY IMPORTANT. 

There’s no worse feeling than seeing your dog running full tilt toward something that could hurt him (Photo: a bull terrier runs across a field)

The leader of any pack of dogs is ALWAYS scanning the environment for threats.

When you play fetch with your dog, you’re tapping into your dog’s natural instinct to chase prey. The two of you are a pack, and hopefully, YOU are the leader of your pack. This makes it YOUR job to scan 360 degrees and be aware of things that could possibly set your dog up for a negative experience (runs headfirst into another dog who is aggressive and gets into a fight), a deadly experience (bites a child and needs to be put to sleep; runs in front of a car; or eats something that kills him,) or sets the general public up for a negative experience (jumps on a jogger who is TERRIFIED of dogs.)   

Her thumb’s up day turns into a thumb’s down day if your dog bites her (Photo: woman jogging giving a thumb’s up)

BEFORE you throw the ball, you should be aware of your surroundings. If there’s a kid on a bike coming and your dog chases bikes, recall your dog (leash them if you have to) and wait until the child goes by before throwing the ball again. 

Clients always ask me: “How do I scan around and not get super stressed out. I feel like I’m on guard/on edge all the time.” 

I answer: “You’re scanning the area to keep your dog safe. There’s nothing to be afraid or panicked about. Just look around calmly. Don’t overthink it.”

Look. Owning a dog is a HUGE responsibility. It’s your job to teach your dog how to overcome all of his behavioural issues BEFORE unclipping the leash in a public place. If you don’t know how to rehabilitate your dog’s behavioural issues (fear of cars, aggressive to dogs and people, chases ATVs/farm equipment) find a trainer who can help you. 

If you know your dog doesn’t have perfect recall, you need to teach it to them for their own safety. Not to mention the safety of the public. How AWFUL do you feel when your dog knocks a little kid off his bike? Scares a jogger by jumping up on them? Body checks your mother or grandmother and she breaks her hip? You don’t need that kind of stress in your life, so be aware of your surroundings. 

There are some dogs who may arrive to the park while you’re there playing fetch with your dog who your dog doesn’t get along with. TIMING! Don’t risk a dog fight, so that you can play five more minutes of fetch. Clip on the leash and go BEFORE this off-leash dog sprints up into your dog’s face after you’ve already leashed up. Anticipate. You’re a Dog Leader now. Make quick decisions that benefit your dog and your own mental health. Advocate for your dog’s space. 

When you leave the park, don’t spend time being annoyed that you missed out on five minutes of fetch. There’s plenty of other things to work on on the leash to tire your dog out MENTALLY. This is your opportunity to teach your dog to walk nicely on the leash (aren’t you tired of joint pain?) 

Aren’t you tired of joint pain? (Photo: Woman being pulled/dragged forward by a Mastiff on a leash)

Remember: I’m not asking you to go be that one meerkat at the zoo who is on patrol (so adorable!) I’m suggesting that when you’re more aware of your surroundings, you can keep your pack safe and time your recall BEFORE your dog is too distracted to obey.

I’m not asking you to be a meerkat, but if you were, we’d be friends. (Photo: meerkat standing on a rock)

Every day won’t be perfect, but most days are pretty awesome. 

Celebrate those great moments with your dog. 

Have an awesome weekend, Dog Leaders! 

Alyssa 

Photos by: Angelina Litvin @linalitvina (chihuahua nestled in the crook of a man’s arm. The man is wearing a wristwatch. See what I did there?), UpSplash image (a bull terrier runs across a field), andrew dinh

@andrewdinh (woman jogging giving a thumb’s up,) Upsplash image (Woman being pulled by a Mastiff on a leash), Tim L. Productions @timlontano (meerkat standing on a rock.)

PUPPY BITING BLUES

Is your puppy using you as a chew toy? (Photo: black and tan puppy chewing a blade of grass with a fantastic snarl on his face)

Puppy teeth are sharp. 

Puppies bite fingers, arms, noses, and feet. And it HURTS! 

One of the biggest mistakes I see new puppy owners making is keeping their puppy awake for two or three hours at a time. It’s too long. Puppies need a lot of sleep and they get extra mouthy when they are tired. You may notice that you’ve become a chew toy (OUCH!) or that your puppy is chewing up mulch, sticks, and leaves like they’ll never have the chance again. These are signs that your puppy needs a nap. 

If you aren’t training them, playing with them, or actively engaging with them, they should be sleeping in their crate. 

At 16 weeks of age, Braxton had never calmed down or napped in his crate - he SCREAMED! He was on medication that wasn’t helping. I’m so happy his owner found me :) (Photo: Braxton, a brindle bulldog puppy, asleep in his crate for the first time)

Another big mistake new puppy owners make is hanging out on the couch with their puppy all morning long. This teaches your puppy that they should ALWAYS be touching you. This is how to CREATE separation anxiety. Believe me, you don’t want it. And your puppy certainly doesn’t want to feel that stress either. Prevent it now, while you have the chance. Use your crate for short, positive, fun sessions. Teach your puppy that going in there for naps is no big deal, and that if you leave, you’ll always come back. 

Thank me six months from now when you’re out doing groceries and you’re NOT worried about your puppy. She’s home in her crate napping, and you’re out and about getting things done. 

I get calls all the time about puppies who are “coming at me” and “biting nonstop.” These people have puncture wounds all over their hands, bite marks on their feet, and bruises on their arms and legs. 

Some of them share with me: “I’m actually SCARED of my puppy.” 

Most of them have tried redirecting with toys, but that is only one tool you should have in your toolbox. 

Redirecting with toys only takes you so far (Photo: black and white terrier puppy biting a yellow toy pig)

During our in-home puppy sessions, we will teach you many strategies to prevent you from becoming a chew toy. 

Schedule your free call today and find out if we’re the right fit for each other. 

Until then, get up and get moving. Engage with your puppy. Provide them with learning opportunities (teach them to LOVE their crate, how to be CALM around food, how to walk nicely on a leash.)

Provide DIRECTION. By leading the way and not sitting back, you’ll be in control of what activity is happening next. When your puppy dictates YOUR movements, you’ll end up with a demand-barker who controls you with their mouth. As your puppy grows into a dog, barks get louder and teeth get bigger. Decide who you want to live with: a well-behaved dog who is a joy to be around, or a holy terror who herds your children, steals food off your counter, and barks at everyone who walks by your house. The decision is yours to make. 

Living with dogs should be a joy. 

Living with dogs should be a joy (Photo: Magic, the author’s Rottweiler swims toward shore holding her favourite ball. She is wearing a red life jacket.)

Happy training! 

Have a wonderful weekend, Dog Leaders!
Alyssa 

Photos by: Daniel Lincoln @danny_lincoln (black and tan puppy chewing a blade of grass with a fantastic snarl on his face,) Alyssa Foulkes (Braxton, a brindle bulldog puppy, asleep in his crate for the first time,) Justin Veenema @justinveenema (black and white terrier puppy biting a yellow toy pig,) Alyssa Foulkes (Magic, the author’s Rottweiler swims toward shore holding her favourite ball. She is wearing a red life jacket.)

How Are You?

(Photo: person sitting at the end of a dock, surrounded by water, mountains, and a blue sky)

How are you? 

How are you, really? 

This is SO IMPORTANT and often never discussed in the dog training world. 

YOU MATTER. 

How you are feeling matters.  

I hope you’re feeling well. If you’re not, let’s acknowledge that together right now. 

How are you feeling in THIS moment? 

Nervous? Tense? Frustrated? Fed up? Sad? Worried? 

What do you do to overcome your stress? (Photo: woman wearing a black tank top and a surgical mask holds her head, as though it aches)

It’s okay to feel these things. It’s important to acknowledge HOW we are feeling and then to try to take a small step toward feeling better. 

Move a pebble, not a mountain. Bit by bit, you’ll get there.

I find this statement helps my clients move forward on their path to wellness

“Right now, I’m feeling _____. I would like to feel more calm.” 

Now, what makes YOU feel calm? Is it sitting in a quiet room and taking ten deep breaths (the kind where your belly and your chest both move)? Is it petting your cat? Is it playing an instrument? Is it taking a walk? Looking at your garden? 

Being in nature brings calmness to many people. What brings you calmness? (Photo: sunrise over the mountains)

Take some time to learn about yourself.

Your emotional well-being is crucial to your relationship with your dog. 

Read. 

That.

Twice. 

Your dog is your mirror. They reflect the energy that you emit. 

You’ve seen this in action. Your dog gets SUPER excited when your family comes over (because you’re super excited to see your family.) Sometimes, your well-behaved dog also forgets his manners at this moment and jumps up. That’s excitement. And before your family arrived, everyone was calmly hanging out in the living room. 

Maybe you’ve noticed this: You’re hanging out in your kitchen re-telling a story about something that really pissed you off. Someone tailgated you on the way home, or your boss was super nasty today. Your dog, who was calmly laying down, is now pacing around you, unsure of why your energy is so off. 

Dogs are amazing teachers. They remind us daily to be calm, confident, and joyful. 

In Ontario, we made it out of lockdown for what felt like two minutes, before being locked down again. It was only a few days later that our provincial government changed their mind and issued a stay-at-home order instead. This is a time of unprecedented stress. Please be kind to yourselves right now. Take five minutes a day to think about the people and animals you are grateful for and to tell yourself that you CAN get through this. Then, take that positive energy and apply it to your dog walk.  

Call your dog calmly and with confidence. Set a small goal. If your dog has never worn a leash before and is a bit shy, that goal may be to teach them there’s nothing to be afraid of. 

Set small, achievable goals for each training session (Photo: Corgi puppy sitting on a hardwood floor)

If your dog is reactive: I’m going to walk him on-leash in the house for five minutes and teach him to follow me. 

If you have a new puppy: I’m going to teach my puppy how to walk on a leash today. Start small. Start inside with less distractions around. And have fun doing it! 

If your dog barks in the backyard: I’m going to go out into the yard for every bathroom break today and I’m going to use the leash to help me. 

If your dog won’t come to you when you pick up the leash: I’m going to work on recall in my home today. My dog’s going to wear a long line, so he can’t ignore me. For more information on long lines: https://beyonddogtraining.ca/news/long-lines

Every moment of every day is a chance for you to develop an amazing relationship with YOURSELF. When you treat yourself with compassion, you’ll be able to treat others with compassion. This includes your dog. 

Patience. Compassion. Positive self-speak.

You can do this. I believe in you. 

Have a wonderful weekend, Dog Leaders.
Alyssa 

Photos by: Simon Migaj @simonmigaj (person sitting at the end of a dock, surrounded by water, mountains, and a sunset,) engin akyur @enginakyurt (woman wearing a black tank top and a surgical mask holds her head, as though it aches,) Vincentiu Solomon @vincentiu (sunrise over the mountains.) Brandon Cormier

@ghosttrooper (Corgi puppy sitting on a hardwood floor,)

Long Lines

This is a leash. Long lines are usually 15 feet long (or longer) Who could resist this adorable photo?!

(Photo: terrier chases a ball while wearing a blue harness and a long line)

A long line is a lightweight, long leash which is often used in off-leash training. They range from 15 feet to roughly 30 feet and usually have no handle (which prevents them from getting caught on shrubs and tree roots.) 

I’ve been researching long lines this month and thought it would be valuable to share what I’ve learned with you. 

First of all, I’ve never owned a long line. To teach recall, I’ve always used a combination of indoor practice (on and off leash), outdoor practice on leash, play (fetch), and because I like to save money, tying two leashes together to make a makeshift long line. 

I absolutely love research, so I’ve been reading about long lines all month. 

Here’s what I’ve learned from Canadian dog lovers and trainers around the globe. 

To DIY or not DIY? That is the question. (Photo: a dirty, braided rope snagged on a log)

Long lines range in price, quality, and fabric. We’re going to dive into the pros and cons of the different fabrics, so that you can choose the option that works best for you and your dog. 

NYLON: 

You can get nylon long lines at Dollarama. While they are obviously not going to last as long or be as well-made as some options, they have great reviews from people with dogs weighing under twenty pounds. 

Drawbacks: The clips are not as strong. The lines are not easy to clean when they get wet/muddy etc. The nylon tends to attract burrs and other debris. 

You can buy nylon long lines with better clips from most pet stores for around $30 CAD + HST. 

Nylon gets wet, dirty, and can attract burrs and debris (Photo: poodle wearing a red nylon leash)

BIOTHANE: 

BioThane® is the brand name of all coated webbing products made by BioThane Coated Webbing Corp. It’s basically a polyester webbing with a TPU or PVC coating that makes it more durable, waterproof, easy to clean and even weldable. BioThane® has suddenly become the go-to choice for dog collars, leashes, and even long lines. It comes in lots of bright, fun colours making it very popular with dog owners. 

On the high end, you can purchase a 20 foot BioThane® long line for $60 CAD + HST.

There are more cost effective BioThane® long line options. Hunting stores sell BioThane® long lines which are interestingly cylindrical rather than flat. Made for dogs who run through the brush during long hunting trials, you know they’ll work for you and your dog on any trail. They also roll up small enough to fit in a coat pocket. A 20 foot long line from Canadian Gun Dog Supply costs $30 CAD + HST. 

Biothane is easier to clean and comes in a wide selection of colours (Photo: Dachshund wearing a turquoise collar and leash)

DIY (MAINLY MADE OF ROPE): I love a good DIY and thought that this would definitely be the option for me, until I read all of the reviews online. Many people head to the local hardware store to make their own long lines. While this will certainly save you money, many of the ropes will easily snag on brush and trees. Long lines made from rope also attract burrs and tend to get tangled, causing dog owners to get very frustrated.

Rope tends to attract burrs as well as getting tangled and dirty (Photo: dirty, fraying rope)

HORSE LUNGE LINES: 

Horse lunge lines are also very popular with dog owners. They are often cheaper than nylon long lines sold in pet stores and have high quality clips. 

They fall short in the easy-to-clean category and also tend to get tangled. 

If you don’t mind untangling things, you can get a horse lunge line for approximately $10-20 CAD + HST. 

Horse lunge lines are an outside-the-box affordable option (Photo: two women stand with a horse and dog (both on lead)

After reading about all of the tangled lines, burrs, and wet/muddy lines, I opted for BioThane® for my long line. Hunters spend long hours in the bush in all sorts of weather. If it’s strong enough to stand up to a gun dog racing through the brush, it’ll be strong enough for dog training.

PARACHUTE CORD: Parachute cord is wonderful for the final stages of transitioning your dog to off-leash life. It is so lightweight that your dog will feel as though he’s truly off-leash, but you have the ability to control him (he just doesn’t know it.) 

Parachute cord needs to be stepped on, rather than grabbed with your hand. If you tie knots in the cord every few feet, it will be easier for your shoe to actually catch the cord as it moves along the ground. 

You can purchase 50 feet of parachute cord for $7 + HST at Home Depot. You’ll want to buy bolt snaps so that you can easily attach it to your dog’s collar. At Home Depot they are sold in two packs and cost $3.95 + HST. 

Canadian Tire and Home Depot have both stopped selling rope on spools. That’s why my price is for 50 feet of parachute cord — it’s prepackaged (at Home Depot) and only comes in one length.  

Canadian Tire doesn’t sell parachute cord in their stores at this time. 

I had to include this because I love slack-lining :) This is not parachute cord. (Photo: a person slack-lining over a canyon)

A quick note on safety: 

I would not recommend leaving a long line on your dog while on an off-leash hike where they may get snagged or tangled with other dogs who you don’t know. Instead, use a long line to train reliable off-leash recall in your home, backyard, or empty field. 

The take home message is that long lines are for TRAINING not for passively allowing your dog to race through the bush tangling up every dog they meet along the way. Tangled dogs and leash tension start fights. Be safe out there.  

Have a safe and happy weekend, Dog Leaders. Remember to keep enjoying the things you CAN do (walking your dog, training your dog, reading, exercising etc,) rather than focusing on the next lockdown. 

For those of you who don’t know, Ontario is heading into another lockdown, beginning on Saturday, April 3, 2021.

Keep shining your lights and spreading kindness, friends. We’ll get through this. 

Alyssa 

Photos by: Aaron Clinard @aaronclinard (terrier chases a ball while wearing a blue harness and a long line,) vijay s @thevijayragav (a dirty, braided rope snagged on a log,) Bianca Ackermann

@biancablah (poodle wearing a red nylon leash,) William Fonteneau

@williamfntn (Photo: Dachshund wearing a turquoise collar and leash,) Nick Wood

@thewhitewood (dirty, fraying rope,) courtney coles

@kernieflakes (two women stand with a horse and dog (both on lead,) Loic Leray

@loicleray (a person slack lining over a canyon.)

Mud!

Dog owners know that March means mud! Every household has their own mud protocol. Some of us put towels down on top of our runner mats, to collect the muddy rivers that flow off our dogs. Others head to the pet store to try out a new mud mat or gadget. No matter what you do, there’s extra laundry and mopping in the spring…right?!

After your puppy sprints through your house leaving muddy footprints everywhere…

There’s not much we can do about the amount of muddy dog towels heading to the laundry, but what if I told you a secret to help you keep that mop in the closet?

Let’s get started! 

There are four basic commands you can teach your dog right now to get them to stand still while they get their feet wiped. There’s also an ADORABLE trick that you can teach them, so that they can wipe their feet themselves!

1. Sit

2. Stay

3. Paw ( I could make this really cute, and use “Shake” instead of “Paw,” but I have a command for outside that I call “Shake” for getting Magic to shake off all the excess water, as she would getting out of a lake or after having a bath.) 

4. Stand

I know, you may be overwhelmed and reaching for that mop bucket right about now. You’re thinking: “Four commands?? Plus teach my dog to shake the excess water from her fur AND wipe HER OWN feet?!” Thud.  

Don’t worry! Focus on a rock-solid sit (where you ask your dog to sit and she stays sitting until released.) Add in the other commands at your own pace. Dog training is a marathon - not a sprint.

Young or old, any dog can learn to sit.

How to Teach Your Dog to Sit: 

      Most dogs and new puppies will naturally lift their chin and sit down when you stand in front of them and raise your hand up above their head. 

      Step 1: Stand in front of your dog, so you are facing them.

      Step 2: Say their name or make a kissy noise, so that their attention is on you. 

Make sure you have your dog’s attention, like this.

Not this…

      Step 3: If you like, hold a treat in your hand for this step. When your dog is sniffing your hand, lift your hand up and toward them. This encourages their chin to tip up and their bum to lower into a sitting position. As soon as their bum hits the floor, feed them the treat and say “Good sit.”

You need to reward dogs within a SECOND, so timing is EVERYTHING. 

Client Question: “How many sits should I ask my new puppy to do?”

Beyond Dog Training’s Reply: “The first day you teach sit, try it about five to seven times. After that, move on to something else. You could play, go for a walk, or work through the other commands that your dog already knows. ALWAYS end on a HIGH note.”

Keep training sessions short and positive. After all that mental stimulation, your puppy or dog may need a nice long nap.

PRO TIP: ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS say “Good sit,” when your dog gives you a good sit. Your words, positivity, smile, and even petting your dog for a great sit become your dog’s reward once you phase out the food.

Phasing out the food rewards will help keep your dog at a healthy weight, minimize the risk for painful knee surgeries down the road, and ensure that your best friend will still listen to you on the days you forget to bring your treat pouch. 

Once your dog knows how to sit on command, you can ask them to sit while you wipe off some of that mud!

For a VERY special tip on When to Teach Your New Rescue Dog to Sit, please scroll down and SUBSCRIBE. I will be sending a special tip for special rescue cases to the subscriber list this week! 

Thanks for reading! Happy Spring, Dog Leaders!

Alyssa

Photos by: Janet Smith-Roberts (muddy legs,) Adli Wahid (six-moppers-mopping,) Sandra Tilkeridisová (dog sitting down,) Victor Grabarczyk (Jack Russel mix,) Ash Goldsbrough (husky with eyes closed,) NeONBRAND (white dog being petted,) Ayla Verschueren (dog with computer.)

Muzzle Up

There’s a lot of different reasons why dogs wear muzzles (Photo: black dog wearing a bright orange basket muzzle)

There are so many reasons to use muzzles.

First, the obvious one: keeping veterinarians and veterinary technicians safe.  One of my very dear friends (a veterinarian) was bitten this week. Three out of four canines sunk into her forearm, which required a trip to the ER and IV antibiotics. There’s swelling, redness, bruising, and pain. 

Muzzle training isn’t your vet’s job. In fact, it’s far more stressful on your dog if she needs to be muzzled at the vet’s office. Typically, the vets don’t have time to slowly introduce the muzzle in a positive way. They have a staff to protect and a waiting room packed with other clients. 

You can make the time to slowly train your dog to love wearing a muzzle. It’s a great proactive step to preventing future stress in your beloved dog. You never know when they may need to wear a muzzle at the vet — even the sweetest dog may bite if they are badly injured. 

Even the sweetest dog may bite if they are injured (Photo: Golden Retriever holding a pink flower in its mouth)

Before we get to the “how to,” let’s talk about some other great reasons for muzzles. 

The people in our local dog forum have been struggling with life-threatening issues, costly vet bills, and in one case, loss of their beloved dog. Two of the most-talked about topics are: 

1. Tainted meat left on local trails (one sample contained antifreeze)

2. THC toxicity in dogs

Some of the affected dogs have been on-leash and some have been off-leash.

If your dog is the type to gobble up everything in her path while on (or off) leash, you could consider muzzle training to literally save her life. Some muzzles are not designed to prevent this type of nibbling, quite the opposite, actually, so do your homework when you’re shopping around and get the right kind. Read the reviews. 

It’s also worth noting that not all muzzles are built to last. It’s worth the extra money to invest in a good one. 

Muzzles are also beneficial for dogs who are terrified of the vet. If your dog bites first and asks questions later, slowly training her to enjoy wearing a muzzle can help her get a full veterinary exam. A “full” exam, you ask? If the vet can’t get a close look at your dog, she may not be able to get a blood sample, or take a close look at the bottoms of her itchy paws. Help your vet out (and your dog) and muzzle train your pup. 

Other benefits? You betcha! 

If your dog is fearful of strangers who constantly invade her space and try to pet her (without asking), wearing a muzzle will certainly keep people (and their flexi-leashed dogs) away from you. If you struggle to advocate for your dog’s space (because you’re like the rest of us: raised to be sooo darn polite that you’d never want to put someone else out) muzzle training can do the talking for you :) 

Muzzles help buy your shy, fearful rescue dog space (Photo: a grey dog being petted on top of his head)

A lot of owners say that their worst fear is that their dog bites someone and has to be put down. They feel a LOT better walking muzzled dog because it takes that fear away. Guess what! It also makes the owner feel more confident, so they can develop their dog leadership skills. Win-Win! 

Let’s show compassion to the next person we see who is walking a dog with a muzzle. They are likely protecting their dog’s life. Be kind. 

Sometimes we have to unlearn the things we learned to create space for new information. 

Tips on muzzle training: 

DO list: 

-measure your dog according the the guidelines for the type of muzzle you are buying

-take your time

-introduce the muzzle calmly and allow your dog to smell it before even beginning to try it on

-reward them calmly (“Good girl,”) simply for investigating it (sniffing it)

-use tiny treats to encourage your dog to move forward into the muzzle

-keep sessions very short and super positive

DO NOT list: 

-do not quickly try it out in the middle of a busy pet store

-do not rush

-do not use baby talk

-do not move the muzzle toward the dog, the dog should come forward into the muzzle

-do not do it up on the first session, just get them used to putting their cute snoot in and out for treats

Always take your time when working with your dog. 

If you’re nervous, anxious, or scared about doing it wrong, bring in a professional to help you out. You’ll learn a lot and have fun doing it. 

Have a wonderful weekend, Dog Leaders! 

Alyssa 

Photos by: Annie Spratt @anniespratt (black dog wearing a bright orange basket muzzle,) Celine Sayuri Tagami @celine_sayuri (Golden Retriever holding a pink flower in its mouth,) Simone Dalmeri @simone_dalmeri (a grey dog being petted on top of his head,)

HOW TO INTRODUCE YOUR DOG TO YOUR NEW HOME: PART 2

Is your dog ready for moving day? (Photo: small dog stands on grass in front of a house)

Are you moving soon? If so, you’re most likely stressed out. If you want to know how to keep yourself and your dog stress-free leading up to moving day, check out last week’s blog: https://beyonddogtraining.ca/news/how-to-introduce-your-dog-to-your-new-home-part-1

If you’re worried about how your dog will react to your new home, you’re in the right place. 

Will your dog be stressed out on moving day? Do they hate car rides? Is the only place they’ve ever been their own backyard (and the veterinarian?) What about the new home? Do you feel badly because you’ve downsized and are afraid they might miss their yard? Are you super excited to introduce your dog to the new swimming pool, but kind of scared because they don’t really know how to swim? 

You want your dog to feel happy and relaxed on moving day. A lot of people think that talking in a high-pitched voice and tossing treats into the backseat like strange confetti, will make their dog feel at ease. This actually has the opposite effect, by making an excited dog more excited and a fearful dog more confused and afraid. 

Talking in a high-pitched voice may make you feel better, but it doesn’t help your dog feel calm (Photo: Pomeranian with whale eye)

Here are a few steps to make moving day easier on everyone: 

1. EXERCISE - Your dog needs daily exercise and so do you. Take a structured walk first thing in the morning on moving day. What’s a structured walk?  In a nutshell, a structured walk looks like this: You lead the way, your dog follows beside/slightly behind you, and you allow them to take sniff breaks, bathroom breaks, and bounce-around-chasing-butterfly breaks. Read more here: https://beyonddogtraining.ca/news/give-your-dog-a-break

2. BREATHE - Your dog picks up your vibe. If you’re sitting in the front seat worrying about traffic, unpacking, and whether or not your dog will eat dinner in the new house or not, your dog will sense your nervousness and happily take over the leadership role in your relationship. This could look like: herding the children when you reach your destination, barking at strangers and dogs who come over to the house to meet you, or chasing the cat all over the new apartment. Not cool. Try to enjoy the car ride — unroll the windows and breathe the fresh air, listen to music, or play a fun game with your kids. 

Relax and enjoy the ride. Your calm energy will be passed along to your dog. (Photo: woman in the passenger seat with her head and arm stretching out of the window)

3. WALK - When you arrive to your new home, walk your dog around the property and the neighbourhood. This allows them to burn off energy from the car ride and to be introduced to their new environment calmly. 

Walk your dog BEFORE introducing them to your new house (Photo: person walking a white French Bulldog in front of a bright yellow house)

4. FIRST - It’s not a race, but you need to enter the house first. Dogs view the world differently than we do. 

5. CALM and CONFIDENT - The easiest way for your dog to feel calm and secure about moving day is for everyone in his human family to be calm and confident. The quote from the Navy Seals: “Calm breeds calm, panic breeds panic,” may help you to visualize the situation. If I walk into an elevator and begin pacing, acting nervous, and wringing my hands together, how will you feel? Panicked. If instead, I walk into the elevator and give you a confident smile, nod my head, and mind my own business, you will feel calm. Your dog is a master of reading your moods and feelings. Work hard to find happiness and balance in your life, and then watch your dog’s behaviour adjust like magic in front of your eyes.  

Calm breeds calm (Photo: Yellow Lab relaxes on his owner’s legs.)

If you’re stressed out because your dog barks at everyone who walks by your current house, guards the fence in the backyard like a police dog, and won’t get off the couch when you ask them to, there’s still hope. Leadership doesn’t happen overnight. If you’re moving and want to prepare yourself, your family, and your dog for this big change, call a dog behaviourist and begin working on any issues you and your dog are currently facing at least two months in advance of the move.

Any behaviourist or trainer worth their salt will help you gain the leadership role in your household before you move, and equip you with a game-day strategy for moving day that works best for your unique lifestyle. 

We hope that you enjoy moving day and that you have fun exploring your new neighbourhood with your dog. 

Alyssa

Photos by: Natalia Shiel (small dog stands on grass in front of a house,) Michelle Tresemer (Pomeranian with whale eye,) averie woodard (woman in the passenger seat with her head and arm stretching out of the window,) Harry Cunningham (person walking a white French Bulldog in front of a bright yellow house,) and Taylor Kopel (yellow lab relaxes on his owner’s legs.)

Last updated: March 12, 2021

HOW TO INTRODUCE YOUR DOG TO YOUR NEW HOME: PART 1

Moving is stressful. Let’s make it better for you and your dog. (Photo: person wearing a hoodie, covering their eyes and sitting on a couch surrounded by boxes)

Are you moving soon? If so, you’re most likely stressed out. You’re up to your eyeballs in packing peanuts and if you stub your toe on that box in the kitchen one more time…!!! 

Your dog is a barometer for your stress level. They feel every ounce of your tension, frustration, and packing-deadline panic. If you’re exhausted from folding (okay, shoving) clothes into garbage bags until three in the morning, your dog will slide into the leadership role in your household in the blink of an eye. 

You may not notice it at first, because you’re so tired, but here are some examples of things that happen when your dog takes over your (current) house before you even move: 

-excessive barking in the home

-charging the fence in your yard

-nipping and/or herding you 

-pulling on the lead especially when other dogs walk by

-chasing your other pets

What is your dog trying to tell you about your own stress level? (Photo: a red dog with pointy ears howling)

You may see these changes as well: 

-following you from room to room 

-getting into the garbage (even if they never did that before) 

-attempts to escape your home (breaking out of crates, eating drywall, scratching underneath doors, and jumping through windows)

These are signs of separation anxiety. Often times this is not only a reflection of an unhappy, lonely dog, but a sign that they do not view you as a leader (so when you leave home without them, they try to follow you to protect you.)

The good news is, you can take back the leadership role anytime you like. The tricky part is, dogs will not follow tense, frustrated, tired, or fearful humans — and mastering your emotions is easier said than done. 

What can you do? 

1. RUSH LESS - If you’re moving into a house and have time to pack slowly, do so. Take your time, listen to music, and of course, take walks with your dog to break up your day. 

Take breaks from packing and walk with your dog. (Photo: Golden Retriever walking on leash with a person)

2. DOGGY DAYCARE - If your deadline is impossible and you really need to pack quickly, consider taking your dog to doggy daycare*.

*If they are not accustomed to doggy daycare already, this is likely not your answer, as it may stress them (and you) out even more. If they already LOVE going to doggy daycare, then this solution might help you.

Other options:

-if your dogs love hanging out at your mom’s house, or with your sister, see if they are available to take your dogs for part of the day

-Have their favourite dog walker take them out for a walk or play session

NOTE: Simply sending them out of the home for a break will not magically fix the behaviours listed above. You must provide calm and confident energy when your dog is around you. 

3. TREAT YOURSELF - Allow yourself one hour first thing in the morning to walk your dog before the packing begins. Take another break halfway through the day for yourself. If we never practice being calm, then how are we supposed to remain calm on our dog walks/during day-to-day activities?! Do some yoga, practice meditation, play an instrument, pet the cat, or do a crossword puzzle.  

Make time for calm activities (Photo: a hand petting a cat under her chin)

4. EXERCISE - Your dog needs daily exercise and so do you. Take a break from packing and go for a run (bonus points if you run with your dog.) Make time to play fetch with them, even if some of it is in the house while you’re packing. Take time out of your day to go to the gym, go swimming, or play your favourite sport. 

Daily exercise reduces stress (Photo: person running with a dog on leash)

5. GET HELP - If your deadline seems unreachable and you can’t figure out how you’re going to pack and still work your 9-5 job, hire professional movers. The price is worth your sanity. Another option: friends and family will often work for pizza. 

Don’t be afraid to ask for help (Photo: people carrying boxes and petting two dogs)

You may be thinking, why not slap a bark collar on the dog since they’re the problem. If that’s the case, reread this post. 

The problem is NOT the dog. Read that twice. 

Labelling the dog is easy. “What a bad dog! You got into the garbage!” OR “I don’t know what’s wrong with her. She’s acting nuts! Ever since we started packing up the house, she’s been so snippy.” 

Mmmm. Hmmmm. 

Self-reflection is one of the hardest things any of us will ever learn to do. The sooner you try this, the sooner you will develop an amazing relationship with your dog. Instead of asking “Why is my dog so stressed?” ask “Why am I so stressed?” and “What changes can I make to lower my stress level?”

Every day is a chance for you to start again. A chance for you to lead a balanced life, free from fear and anger. Let’s leave these emotions behind and embrace joy. Embrace peace. Embrace love. Quiet your mind from negative thoughts. 

The ripple effect of a calmer you is so much larger than you can imagine. It begins at home with your human loved ones and your furry family. It extends out to strangers as you travel to work and school. To your coworkers, your friends, your extended family. To grocery clerks, gas station attendants, baristas, and bartenders. 

It begins with YOU. 

We hope this post helps to reduce your stress (Photo: a man stands with his dog beside a SOLD sign)

We hope you have a safe and joyful move. Stay tuned for next week’s post about introducing your dog to your new home so they don’t take over. 

Alyssa

Photos by: Christian Erfurt (person wearing a hoodie, covering their eyes and sitting on a couch surrounded by boxes,) Andriyko Podilnyk (Golden Retriever walking on leash with a person.) Robert Gramner (a red dog with pointy ears howling,) Yerlin Matu (a hand petting a cat under her chin,) Sergio Rodriguez - Portugues del Olmo (person running with a dog on leash.) Isaac Benhesed (people carrying boxes and petting two dogs.) Alyssa Foulkes (a man stands with his dog beside a SOLD sign - yes, that’s my man and our first dog, Brooklyn.)

Updated March 4, 2021

INSIDE VS. OUTSIDE

Is your dog a sweetheart inside and scary outside your home? (Photo: red dog napping in a chair with his owner.)

Is your dog amazing inside your home? Loving? Sweet? Wouldn’t harm a fly? 

Does she surprise you when outside she’s lunging on the end of the leash, snapping at other dogs, and killing rabbits in your yard?

Let’s talk about inside vs. outside. 

“He’s a completely different dog outside than he is inside.” (Photo: a wolf making direct eye contact)

First, I want you to write down all of the things your dog does really well inside your home. Yes, right now. What’s stopping you? 

Now, make a new list of anything she does in the home that you don’t like. That could be stealing your children’s socks; counter surfing (stealing food off of counters and tables;) jumping up on you (and/or your guests;) mouthing you (and/or your guests;) guarding food, bones, toys; not listening when you say a command; etc. 

Put the lists side by side. Which one is longer?
For most people, it is the second list that is longer. Although your dog is a total sweetheart inside your home and a great cuddle-buddy, she doesn’t have the structure that she needs from you. This is the root of the issue of why she doesn’t listen to you when you are on walks with her. She doesn’t yet know she is supposed to. 

Take the time to notice which behaviours you like and which ones you do not (Photo: a hand holding a pen writing a list on graph paper.)

Before worrying about what your leash walk looks like, there is work to be done on your relationship with your dog inside your home. 

A dog who doesn’t listen inside the home, will not listen outside of the home. 

You need to teach them to trust and respect you as a leader. 

Think of yourself as a teacher. Right now, your dog is like a kindergarten student with no teacher in the room. That little kindie, if she were human, might paint on your walls with markers, cut up your most expensive purse strap and use the pieces to make hair for her alien stuffy, and possibly eat a crayon or two. The point is, kindergarten kids and dogs both require rules, structure, and supervision in order to learn right from wrong. 

Dogs need a leader, just like kids need a teacher. (Photo: a red and blue finger painting with lots of handprints.)

So, how do you teach your dog new behaviours that are positive and awesome? 

You start at the beginning. Don’t worry, it’s not difficult and it’s a lot of fun. 

If you have severe behavioural issues, consult with a dog behaviourist who understands both dog training and dog psychology before beginning these tips. 

STEP ONE: Provide enough exercise. It is very difficult to work with a dog who has pent up energy. By fulfilling their primal need for exercise every day, a lot (not all) of nuisance behaviours (barking at the window all day, stealing socks, constantly nudging you with a toy) begin to improve. 

STEP TWO: Eye contact. You need more of it from your dog. A dog who looks at you for direction, is a dog who understands that you hold the key to all things he wants (food, water, access to outside, toys, etc.) This is a dog who listens to you and is fun to live with. Wait patiently for eye contact before: feeding, giving a treat, allowing your dog into your car, allowing your dog to follow you up the stairs in your home, and before you go through any doorway in your home. 

STEP THREE: Reward calmness. When we reward our dogs for undesirable behaviours (begging at the table, jumping up on us, sprinting across the couch, and even when they are barking out the window) these behaviours continue. Sometimes, we reach down and pet our dogs without realizing they’re actually fixated on our cat (predatory behaviour toward a family member,) whining and looking out the window (anxiety), or laying on top of our feet (claiming us.) 

We sometimes forget to reward the things we actually DO like.

When your dog is laying calmly on his bed, nodding off to sleep, reward that. You don’t have to walk over and pet him, just say: “Good boy.” 

When you call your dog over into your personal space and he comes in with his head low and is calm, pet him. 

If you call him over and he licks your face obsessively, bonks into your nose, jumps on you, and accidentally scratches your face — don’t pet him. Unless, you like all of those things and think that everyone else he meets in the future (your grandmother, elderly neighbour, your three-year-old niece, and your own future children) will like that too. 

You get what you pet. Reward calmness more often and your dog will give you calmness more often.

Happy training, Dog Leaders! You can do this! 

Alyssa 

Photos by: serjan midili @s_midili (red dog napping in a chair with his owner,) Upsplash (a wolf making direct eye contact,) Glenn Carstens-Peters @glenncarstenspeters (a hand holding a pen writing a list on graph paper,) Bernard Hermant @bernardhermant (a red and blue finger painting with lots of handprints,)