WAS HALLOWE’EN A NIGHTMARE FOR YOU?

Was Hallowe’en tough on you and your pup? (Photo: French bulldog wearing a ghost costume)

Hallowe’en brings a trifecta of terror to many dog owners. 

First, there’s the decorations. Even the “regular” kind that don’t move, like skeletons or zombie arms jutting out of the ground, can be scary to some dogs. 

How did your dog do with the motion-sensor decorations this year? The ones that light up, move, and make noise. 

Which decorations scare your dog the most? (Photo: life-sized skeletons pose in a yard)

How about the large inflatable jack o’ lanterns and cats? 

How about the plastic tape snapping in the wind? 

Ghosts swinging from tree branches? 

Let us know in the comments what your dogs struggled with. 

Whether stationary, moving on their own, or blowing in the wind, Hallowe’en decorations can be scary for some dogs (Photo: zombie hanging from a tree)

The second struggle that comes with Hallowe’en is people in costumes. Adults wear ENORMOUS…well, I’d call them masks, but really they are heads. These can be quite alarming to some dogs, especially when paired with HUGE fake hands. 

For dogs who are afraid of children, or people carrying objects, Hallowe’en is no fun at all. Not only are there children, but they are RUNNING, SCREAMING, and MOVING TOWARD YOUR DOG VERY QUICKLY while you’re out walking. Some rescue dogs really struggle with children waving swords, lightsabers, and pitch forks. 

Does your rescue dog cower in fear when people carry lightsabers…or golf clubs? (Photo: Darth Vadar pointing a lightsaber at the camera)

The third issue is people BANGING ON THE FRONT DOOR. This is something that many people struggle with on a daily basis, often locking their dog up when they have guests over. Hallowe’en is a gentle reminder to many people that their dog could really benefit from some training in this area. Wouldn’t you LOVE for your dog to be a part of your family gatherings? 

Trick or Treat? Are you and your dog ready for scary visitors? (Photo: person wearing a Freddy Kruger costume)

Let’s spend some time chatting about decorations because a) they are still going to be up for another couple of weeks and b) Christmas decorations are already going up. 

If your dog is concerned about decorations (nervous, running away from, won’t “let you” walk past them) there are a few tips you can try. None of us want our dog to live in fear. It’s a terrible way to feel. 

All dogs are different, so this may not work for every dog (depending on how fearful they are,) but if that’s the case, you can always schedule a FREE phone call with us and get some one-on-one coaching to help you out. The TAKE ACTION button will lead you straight to your FREE PHONE CALL.

1. BE CALM — If your dog has previously been afraid of decorations, you may be on edge and worried before you even pass by. Take a deep breath, relax, and look at your leash — it should be loose. Our own nervousness will travel down a tense leash and straight into our dogs. Breathe and believe!
   
   2. DON’T AVOID…TEACH — A lot of us do two things when it comes to dogs. We either AVOID the situation altogether (lock up your dog when people come over, store all food high up so they can’t reach it, never walk by certain houses because of decorations or backyard barkers.) When we do this, we miss an OPPORTUNITY TO TEACH. Take the opportunity to HELP your dog through the situation, instead of just brushing it under the rug. The other thing we tend to do is RUSH. We leave the house and only have time for a five minute walk (already in a rush,) and then scurry past scary decorations (because we think that will make it better, like ripping off a bandaid.)

Being on your phone and in a rush isn’t going to help your dog relax (or you!) (Photo: hand throwing away a cell phone)

Be in the moment. Leave your house with a clear goal of desensitizing your dog to ONE particular type of decoration. You don’t have to do all of them on the same walk, just try ONE thing. Experiment with walking past the object from a distance. Observe when your dog is uncomfortable (are you 30 feet away, 20 feet away, across the street?) Write all of these things down for your dog behaviourist. Every bit of information helps solve the puzzle. If you feel confident that you can tackle this on your own, hang out with your dog at a distance where they can ignore the object and LISTEN to a command. It’s okay if it’s far away, you can move closer gradually — and you don’t need to do it all in one day.

3. REWARDS — be sure to reward your dog when they are calm and relaxed. It may take awhile for them to be relaxed around the object, and that’s okay. Stand with them, with no leash tension, and simply be a calm source of energy. They will look to you for advice — if you look calm, they will feel safe. The reward doesn’t have to be food. You can rub their chest, say “good settle,” or engage in some tug of war. If they can play near the object, you’ll know they’re comfortable. If they are very food motivated and will NOT take a treat, you’ll know you still have work to do. And that’s okay. All good things are worth working for.

Remember to be consistent with your dog. If someone in your family is petting Daisy when she is shaking with fear beside a giant spider, they are reinforcing the fearful behaviour. Be sure that you come up with a solid plan about how to help your dog past her fear and GET ALL FAMILY MEMBERS ON BOARD. 

It’s the same for a dog who jumps up. If one family member allows jumping up, the dog will continue to be confused and jump up. 

I hope you had an amazing Hallowe’en and that you are able to help your dogs move past their fear of decorations in time for December. 

Alyssa 

Photos by: Sarah Shull (French bulldog wearing a ghost costume,) NeONBRAND @neonbrand (life-sized skeletons pose in a yard,) Bellava G @bellava (zombie hanging from a tree,) Jose Martinez @jmartinez143 (Darth Vadar pointing a lightsaber at the camera,) Ilya Shishikhin @shishilya (person wearing a Freddy Kruger costume,) and Stanislav Kondratiev @technobulka (hand throwing away a cell phone.)

REACTIVE RESCUE DOGS

Being behind your dog is necessary for some dog sports — it’s NOT necessary for daily walks with your pet dog (Photo: large, on-leash dog pulling human toward another human)

Your new best friend barks at EVERYTHING when you’re out for a walk. Not only THAT, but he LUNGES toward people and other dogs. You’ve become “THAT DOG OWNER” — the one people cross the street to get away from. 

You feel TERRIBLE because your dog is scaring people (and children.) You’ve watched a lot of YOUTUBE VIDEOS, but nothing is working. If anything, your dog has gotten WORSE…and FAT! 

Not only are you embarrassed by his behaviour, your entire body hurts. You DREAD WALKING HIM. 

Do you feel like you have to hold on for dear life? That’s no fun! (Photo: dog on a halti with too much leash tension)

Imagine a peaceful walk with your dog. Where would you most like to take him? The beach? A trail? Picture yourself strolling along passing people, other dogs, skateboards, and bikes. He’s not pulling or barking. 

Now, let’s make this a REALITY. 

Answer these questions: 

1. Does my dog always walk in front of me? 

2. Am I stressed out during the walk?  

Did you answer YES to both of those questions? 

Did you know that changing these two things can help you? 

It’s not as simple as flipping a light switch. It’s a challenge to teach a dog to walk beside you and it’s an even BIGGER challenge to be CALM and CONFIDENT during your walks, but it’s worth it. 

Not only will you FEEL BETTER, so will your dog.

This dog is showing whale eye. Look that up, you will thank me later. (Photo: a chihuahua mix giving whale eye while on leash in FRONT of his owner)

This week, I want you to work on YOU so you can FEEL LESS STRESSED during your walks. 

Before you leave for your walk, I want you to empty your mind of all the bad things that happened on your walks before. Those things are now in your rearview. In the past. Leave them there. 

Before you even pick up the leash, I want you to remind yourself of one thing in your life that you are VERY good at. Is it singing? Is it being a mom? Is it being a doctor? Whatever it is, I want you to be THAT version of you right now. The calm one. The confident one. The one that knows “I’ve got this.” 

The CALM and CONFIDENT you, is the one YOUR DOG WILL HAPPILY FOLLOW (Photo: person walking with their dog heeling)

WHY does this matter? 

Dogs are pack animals. They follow a leader who PROTECTS them and gives them DIRECTION. They don’t follow HYPER dogs. They don’t follow FEARFUL dogs. They don’t follow TENSE dogs. This is the SAME when they join a human family. They will only follow CALM and CONFIDENT humans. 

If they view you as a source of sweet, passive, fearful, nervous, tense, or frustrated energy, they will HAVE NO CHOICE but to LEAD. 

Very few dogs are actually HAPPY with the leadership role. Most dogs, especially your fearful new rescue dog, are MORE STRESSED OUT walking in front of you and being your leader. 

I KNOW that you didn’t adopt your rescue dog with the intention of causing them MORE STRESS, so let’s take the necessary steps and change the roles the two of you are playing. Right now, HE is the LEADER and YOU are the FOLLOWER. You walk BEHIND him, so you are the follower. 

Did you know that lip-licking is a sign of STRESS in dogs? (Photo: dog walking in front of his person, licking his lips)

You can learn how to LEAD him on the walk here: https://beyonddogtraining.ca/news/what-you-allow-you-agree-with

Remember to focus on finding what makes YOU feel calm and confident before and during your walks. The most beautiful thing about this process is reminding yourself how truly strong you are. A lot of the time we let our inner-meanie say nasty things to us. Silencing that voice will lead you to a more balanced way of being. You can thank your dog for helping heal you. Who really rescued who? 

Have a fun weekend teaching your dog (and yourself) new things. 

Alyssa

Photos by: Anna Dudkova (large, on-leash dog pulling human toward another human,) David Schultz (dog on a halti with too much leash tension,) Richard Burlton (a chihuahua mix giving whale eye while on leash in FRONT of his owner,) Jenn Simpson (person walking with their dog heeling,) Dominik Kempf (dog walking in front of his person, licking his lips.)

What You Allow, You Agree With

If you ALLOW leash pulling, then you AGREE with leash pulling (Photo: terrier pulling on the leash)

Does your dog pull on the leash? Drag you toward other dogs? Every tree and bush? Every cat and squirrel? 

Your dog has learned that pulling forward is allowed. 

What we allow, we agree with. 

Every time you leave home and your dog pulls ahead of you and you follow — you AGREE that this is how we walk as a pack. 

If you allow your dog to pull on the leash (by following him down the street on HIS walk,) you AGREE with the way he is walking. He will continue to walk this way until you train him to walk nicely on the leash. 

This same principle applies to every aspect of your relationship with your dog. 

If you allow your dog not to listen to your “Come!” command, then you agree that when you ask him to do something, he can simply ignore you. This is super dangerous, by the way — recall saves lives. 

If you allow your dog to ignore your “Come,” command, you AGREE with that behaviour of ignoring you (Photo: off-leash dog stands looking at his owner)

If your dog jumps on you and you allow it, then you agree with it. The following day, when it’s raining and you’re wearing your favourite white sweater, don’t get angry and push your dog off because he put muddy paw prints on your top. You TAUGHT him to do that yesterday. He shouldn’t “know” not to do that when you’re wearing THAT sweater. And he won’t know not to jump on your nephew three days from now, or your own children (or grandchildren) three years from now. 

Be consistent with your dog and expect anyone who interacts with your dog to follow your rules. You will encounter strangers who want to pet your new puppy or rescue dog. They may not mind if your dog jumps up. Heck, they may even ENCOURAGE your dog to jump up. Don’t let that happen. Speak up. 

Stranger: “Can I pet your dog?” 

You: “Sure. She’s in training. Please only pet her when all four feet are on the ground and she’s calm.” 

If your dog struggles not to jump on people, or consistently jumps up when strangers use the baby-talk voice (you know the one!) feel free to answer: “No. Sorry. She’s in training,” and keep right on walking. 

You don’t need to set your dog’s training back a step so that someone else can fulfill THEIR needs with YOUR dog. 

If you pet this excited dog, you are AGREEING with EXCITEMENT and JUMPING UP (Photo: an excited mini Doodle pulls on the leash with both front feet off the ground)

TIP OF THE WEEK: It’s not how far you walk, it’s HOW you walk that matters. 

Remember that quote from Madmen? “If you don’t like what’s being said, change the conversation.” 

Being pulled around by your dog IS a CONVERSATION. They are saying “Let’s go this way now.” If you move in their direction, you are answering as a follower, “Okay.” 

If you’re tired of being pulled, STOP walking. Take a deep breath and try this. 

1. Get your dog’s attention — say their name, make a kissy noise, or wave a treat near their nose. If you CAN’T GET THEIR ATTENTION, MOVE INSIDE YOUR HOME. Go to step 2. 

2. Say your dog’s name, and the word heel. “Sally, heel.” Start walking. You should still have her attention on you, not the ground (sniffing.) 

3. As soon as she is in position, beside or slightly behind your knee, say “Good heel.” 

4. Change direction BEFORE Sally gets distracted by a scent (rabbit, squirrel) or sight (another dog — or your cat, if you’re working inside) Don’t forget to say the command, “Sally, heel.” 

5. If Sally keeps heeling, say “Good heel.” If she doesn’t, use a leash correction to remind her “Hey, we’re walking where I want today. I’m actually really sick of having a sore back and we’re trying this new awesome way of walking.” 

You don’t need a lot of space for this activity. Think of it as a ten foot by ten foot square. Sometimes you will turn toward your dog, and sometimes you will turn away from your dog. 

Leadership is a feeling. It comes from within. Anyone can do it! (Photo: toddler walks terrier — the terrier is following/heeling)

PRO TIP: There should be NO tension on the leash during this activity. 

If I were to offer this toddler any advice, it would be to relax their right arm. When you work with your dog at home, don’t make an L-shape with your arm. Your arm should be relaxed and by your side.

You don’t have to spend a lot of time to teach your dog to heel. Try five minutes a day for a week inside your home and tell us how it goes in the comments. 

Be sure to have fun with this challenge. Dogs and people learn better when they are having a good time. 

The reason it’s easier to practice INDOORS is because OUTSIDE has WAY MORE DISTRACTIONS. It smells AWESOME to your dog outside. This means that YOU have to compete to be extra awesome in the eyes of your dog when you are outside. 

Inside there are less distractions. Work up to heeling outside gradually. You will reach your goal! 

Have fun with it! 

Alyssa

Photos by: freestocks (terrier pulling on the leash,) Matt Bradford-Aunger (off-leash dog stands looking at his owner,)

Honest Paws (an excited mini Doodle pulls on the leash with both front feet off the ground,) and Robert Eklund (toddler walks terrier — the terrier is following/heeling.)

WELL-TRAINED VS BALANCED

There is a difference between a dog laying down and a dog laying down calmly (Photo: white Siberian Husky laying down in front of a lake and mountains)

Do you have a well-trained dog? A dog who comes when she’s called, heels on the leash, and listens to you when you say “leave it?” That same dog, who is very well trained in a number of commands, may still be unbalanced. 

What does that mean? 

Although your dog can do many things that you ask of her, she is stressed out while doing the tasks. She whines anxiously almost all of the time. She shakes in fear when you move the furniture. She barks at everything that passes your front window and can’t seem to stop — and won’t listen to you when she’s in that state of mind. 

Dog training sometimes focuses on the mechanics more than the state of mind. Some trainers will teach you sit, down, stay, and come and show you to feed your dog for compliance into these positions WITHOUT REGARD FOR WHAT STATE OF MIND YOUR DOG IS IN. 

What state of mind are you feeding/rewarding? (Photo: person holding a treat up high, encouraging a black Lab to jump up for the treat)

Your dog may come, but gallop to you with too much excitement, smacking into your legs. If you say, “Good come,” and pay them with food, you’ve just taught your dog to greet all people with excitement. That is how they will greet your mother, your grandmother, and toddlers. 

Dog psychology looks at the state of mind that the dog is in and rewards calmness. Who doesn’t love a calm dog? Calm dogs don’t knock your cute children over. Calm dogs don’t bound through someone’s picnic in the park. Calm dogs don’t bite your hand when you’re trying to take their toy out of their mouth during fetch. 

Calm dogs don’t chomp your fingers off while you’re playing fetch (Photo: person gently taking a tennis ball from a Rottweiler’s mouth)

Calm does not equal boring. 

Can you still play with a calm dog? 

Absolutely! Calm dogs are more fun to play with, because they are playing with YOU not just the toy in your hand. 

We’ve all seen that excited (and LOUD) dog at the park who is BARKING, BARKING, BARKING at the Chuckit! stick in the human’s hand — “Throw it! Throw it! Oh, my goodness, throw it! They’re NOT throwing it. I will try jumping on them. I will try…jumping up and biting the Chuckit! Maybe more barking.” <person throws the ball>

“Yes! It was the barking they liked! THAT got me the ball.” 

Be mindful of what behaviour you are rewarding. Often it is a behaviour we don’t love (like barking) that we are paying the dog for. 

It’s more fun to play with a balanced dog. Balanced dogs aren’t obsessed with toys. (Photo: Tan and White Pitbull mix lays on a beach with space between his human and his toy AND between himself and his toy

Is it wrong to have your calm dog get excited while playing fetch? 

No. Of course not. As long as YOU are in control of the excitement. Think of your dog’s excitement like a bonfire. You can bring up the levels of excitement, just as long as you can also bring them back down again. You need to control the flames. 

What to do:  

Teach your dog to look at YOU instead of the ball. When he looks at you and gives you one moment of silence, say “Yes!” and throw the ball. 

“Yes,” is a command given to communicate two things: 

1. You got it right.

2. You’re free to go play now. 

What will help you achieve this goal faster? 

Your own energy. If we use the fire analogy, your excitement is gasoline on the flames. The more you amp up your dog with words: “Ready? Ready? Are ya ready, boy?” the more excited they will get. 

Try playing silently and being two things — calm and confident. That’s all you need to bring to the fetch game…that and a whole lot of JOY! 

Playing in a more structured way keeps the game challenging and fun for everyone (Photo: Rottweiler holding a ball jogs toward his person)

Can you have a well-trained dog who is also balanced? 

Yes! This is what we’re aiming for. A well-trained and balanced dog FEELS good about the work they are doing. FEELS good about the world around them. 

Instead of forcing a fearful dog to learn to sit, work on achieving calmness and trust FIRST before caring about whether or not they can sit on command. A nervous, fearful dog sitting beside you, isn’t any better than a nervous, fearful dog standing beside you. They are still nervous and fearful. 

By learning dog psychology you will help your dog learn there’s nothing to be afraid of. Once they have confidence and aren’t afraid of leaves blowing, strollers, and skateboards THEN work on simple dog training commands. When you do it in that order (dog psychology and THEN dog training), suddenly dog training commands are insanely easy. WHY? Because your dog is calm, confident, and balanced. Can you learn when you’re shaking in fear? Nope. Neither can your dog. 

If you’re terrified of clowns and find math difficult, will I sit you in a room full of clowns to teach you math? No. I’ll help you overcome your fear of clowns and then teach you math once you’re calm. (Photo: scary clown)

Be patient. Be calm. Never set a stopwatch to training a dog. 

Do your very best to become the calm and confident person that your dog needs. All they need is a leader (plus love, food, water, shelter, physical exercise, and mental challenge — those are givens, as you’re likely already providing all of those things.) The last puzzle piece to fall into place for many, many people is being calm and confident themselves. It’s harder than it sounds, but the ripple effect to your dog and other human relationships is well worth the effort. 

Your dog needs someone who can show them the world isn’t as scary as they think. That person can be you! 

Reward calmness more often. Give affection to your dog when they are in a calm state of mind, and they will begin to show you their calm self more often. 

If you pet them when they are hyper, they will show you hyper more often. 

Be mindful of what state of mind you reward. This is the way to a balanced dog (and a more balanced life for you as well!) 

Have a fantastic Friday, Dog Leaders! 

Alyssa 

Photos by: Jf Brou (white Siberian Husky laying down in front of a lake and mountains,) Chewy (person holding a treat up high, encouraging a black Lab to jump up for the treat,) Chewy (person gently taking a tennis ball from a Rottweiler’s mouth,) Laurie Gibson (Tan and White Pitbull mix lays on a beach with space between his human and his toy AND between himself and his toy — that is respect,) Sinitta Leunen (Rottweiler holding a ball jogs toward his person,) and Tom Roberts (scary clown.)

Tips for crowded hiking trails #thanksgiving

The trails are crowded on Thanksgiving weekend. Are you and your dog ready? (Photo: person hiking on a trail with their dog off leash and behind them)

If your dog is reactive on leash (barks and growls and drags you toward other dogs and/or people,) hiking on Thanksgiving weekend may feel like a pipe dream. 

If you celebrate American Thanksgiving, you have time to prepare yourself and your dog for this challenge. 

If you celebrate Canadian Thanksgiving, there’s less time for prevention. 

Here are some tips to help friends on both side of the border. 

PREVENTION TIPS: 

One of the most common causes of leash reactivity is simply allowing your dog to walk in front of you and have the leadership role. 

When you are behind your dog, THEY deal with upcoming “threats”, not you. Pulling from behind on the leash creates tension and only makes a dog pull AGAINST the tension. That tension causes frustration. 

Leash tension leads to leash reactivity. Say no to leash tension. (Photo: pulling lab with pulling Weimaraner)

Teaching your dog a structured walk allows them to view YOU as their leader, not someone they feel the need to protect. You can learn how to do a structured walk here: https://beyonddogtraining.ca/news/give-your-dog-a-break

The structured walk is the cure for your shoulder and back pain. This type of walking stops your dog from pulling you, so your body can finally heal from all that jerking that’s been happening. It’s also a lot safer for you (I’ve seen people pulled into traffic!!! Have you?) 

Don’t be fooled by the beautiful sunset. This picture isn’t what you’re aiming for. (Photo: tall man wades in the water, being pulled by his three leashed dogs in the sunset)

PRO TIP: If you allow your dog to get away with EVERYTHING inside your home (and never listen to you), you will need to improve that relationship before tackling a structured walk in an area of high distraction. If they can ignore you when you say “Come,” inside your house, they will ignore you when you say “Come,” outside your house (where there’s more smells, sights, and sounds worth ignoring you for.) 

With your dog under control (and listening to you,) hiking on busy trails becomes a lot easier. 

If your dog has severe behavioural issues, there’s still time to work on those before American Thanksgiving. TAKE ACTION now and look forward to Thanksgiving hikes, instead of dreading them. You can schedule a FREE CALL or an ONLINE TRAINING SESSION no matter where you live.

Canadians are already hitting the hiking trails as we cruise into Thanksgiving weekend. Here are a few tips to help you navigate the crowded trails with your reactive dog(s): 

1. WALK EARLY — Hiking trails are less busy early in the morning. If your dog is mildly leash reactive, head out early to avoid the rush. 

Wake up early and beat the rush (Photo: a couple crouch beside a river with their dog)

2. ADVOCATE FOR YOUR DOG — If your dog is fearful or aggressive toward other dogs, a busy hiking trail is not a FAIR location for you to bring them to. Working through these issues takes time. It’s okay to walk your dog in your own neighbourhood and then go on a family hike without them. Your job is to protect them and keep them safe and happy. If they (and you) won’t be happy on the hike, then it may be the kindest decision to leave them at home. You can work on these issues over the next few weeks and bring them on a celebratory hike in November instead. It’s okay not to be ready.

3. WHAT IS YOUR ENERGY? — Dogs will only follow CALM and CONFIDENT humans. If you are rushing to get a hike done and worried that your turkey might burn while you’re gone, your dog will sense that you need protection. Be calm and confident from the moment you wake up until the moment you fall asleep. That’s leadership and that’s what you signed up for when you got a dog instead of a cat. 

Are you the leader or a follower? (Photo: Alyssa Foulkes and her Rottweiler, Magic hiking on a trail. Magic is following behind Alyssa)

4. WATCH CLOSELY — If you are hiking with family and friends, you will likely be distracted (chatting more than directing your dog.) If your pack has lots of people and off leash dogs and collides with other big groups (this happens about every one to two minutes on Thanksgiving weekend in Ontario,) how will you respond? How will other humans in your group respond? How will the other dogs in the group respond? And how will your dog respond? You should know the answer to all of these questions. If you don’t know, you may leave the hike thinking “Out of nowhere there was this HUGE dog fight.” Dog fights NEVER happen out of nowhere. They happen because people missed dog body language that was SILENT and didn’t intervene in time. 

5. STRESS and SOCIAL DISTANCING — Some trails have a lot of choke points/bottlenecks where it’s difficult to maintain 6 feet of social distance. If this is going to stress you out (tromping off the trail into the trees every five seconds) don’t hit the trails. Dogs are INSTINCTUAL. They can’t rationalize “Mom’s annoyed because of COVID, or mom’s annoyed because the tree just scratched her.” They can only assume that what’s in front of you is stressing you out — the people and the other oncoming dogs. “I’ll take care of those things for you, mom.” BARK, BARK, BARK (Go away, my mom doesn’t like you,) OR (You’re still coming toward my mom and she’s tense, and barking isn’t working. I will proceed to the next step of growling, lunging, and biting.) None of their actions are out of nowhere. Their actions are because of YOU. Be calm. Be confident. Have less dog issues. 

Being calm and confident takes daily practice. It’s hard not to swear when someone cuts you off in traffic and it’s challenging not to feel stressed out during a pandemic. No one is saying it’s easy, but believe me — it’s worth living a more balanced and harmonious life. Your dog is showing you the way — live in the moment.

Be joyful. Find peace. Be grateful. You’ll be amazed at the effect it has on you, those around you, and your dog!

Happy Thanksgiving! I hope you have a safe and happy weekend with your favourite dogs and people! 

Alyssa

Photos by: Wilfried Santer (@wsanter) (person hiking on a trail with their dog off leash and behind them,)

 Jeffrey F Lin (pulling lab with pulling Weimaraner,) Mel Elías (tall man wades in the water, behind his three leashed dogs in the sunset,) Upsplash photo (a couple crouch beside a river with their dog,) Parry Bast (Alyssa Foulkes and her Rottweiler, Magic hiking on a trail. Magic is following behind Alyssa.)

How to Stop Your Puppy From Counter Surfing

(Photo: Siberian Husky eats a candlelight snack of bread and strawberries…on a table)

You’ve prepared a fantastic meal, or simply set a steak out on the counter to thaw. You turn your back to open a bottle of wine, or ask the kids to set the table, and suddenly the steak is missing. By the time you locate your dog, all that’s left is a stain on the carpet. 

Let’s work on preventing this from EVER happening. 

Every time you pause to take a photo, you are missing a teachable moment (Photo: terrier with his head resting on a table full of food, drinks, dishes.)

The easiest way to raise a puppy who NEVER counter surfs, is to NEVER allow them the freedom to put their paws up there in the first place. How many pictures have you seen on social media of puppies on countertops and kitchen tables? Hundreds? More? While these photos may bring you “likes,” they also bring you YEARS of drama — because you have to LIVE with that puppy who you TAUGHT to go on kitchen tables and counter tops. 

The biggest mistake new puppy owners make is giving too much freedom too fast. Your new puppy should not have the run of your entire house. When they wander around unsupervised they will have accidents and they will put things in their mouths that they shouldn’t. If you aren’t with them, they will learn: “it’s okay to pee wherever I want” and “it’s okay to chew/eat whatever I want.” You need to supervise them at all times. Of course you need to shower and go to work, so this is where crate training comes into play. 

Crate training prevents your puppy from wandering around unsupervised and potentially eating something dangerous (that requires surgery to remove, or kills your puppy.) Dogs are naturally den animals, so instinctually they feel safe in a small space and they know not to go to the bathroom in there too. 

It’s easier to prevent counter surfing than it is to correct it later on (Photo: Cavalier King Charles Spaniel eating a large dinner roll)

Becoming a pet parent is like becoming a teacher. Every moment in your puppy’s life is a teachable moment. It’s far easier to prevent bad behaviours (like counter surfing and peeing indoors) by simply never letting them happen in the first place. 

Counter surfing is an expensive habit to allow. Not only can your puppy eat your expensive meals and snacks, they can also eat the packaging. Vet bills are expensive. If you don’t know how to stop a puppy from counter surfing, you will also require a dog behaviour expert to teach you how to do it. Hopefully this blog post will help save you a LOT of money. 

Prevent your puppy from EVER needing painful surgery to remove packaging or harmful small bones (Photo: terrier mix wearing an Elizabethan collar)

If you prepare your dog’s meals on the counter, never allow them to jump up on you or the counter. Have them wait calmly on their bed, or just outside the kitchen. This will encourage good manners around your countertop from day one. 

Remember that everyone in the family needs to follow the same rules and boundaries that you have set for the dog. Being consistent is being fair (and kind) to your puppy. 

Struggling with counter surfing? This blog post may help: https://beyonddogtraining.ca/news/food-rewards-counter-surfing-and-your-dogs-weight

If you’re worried about your puppy’s safety and want help now, schedule a behavioural assessment today. Our assessment is called “Your Dog Would Choose This One” because it includes hands-on training that will get you started right away. Schedule your session here: https://beyonddogtraining.ca/take-action

Don’t send mixed messages to your dog. It isn’t fair — even on special occasions. (Photo: small dog sitting at a dining room table being served a birthday treat, complete with a candle)

Do you have a counter surfing story to share? This community is supportive and kind in the comments, so feel free to tell us your stories. We would love to hear from you! 

Wishing you a fabulous Friday, Dog Leaders! 

Alyssa

Photos by: Paul Trienekens (Siberian Husky eating a candlelight snack of bread and strawberries…on a table,) Daniel Brunsteiner (terrier with his head resting on a table full of food,) free stock photo (Cavalier King Charles Spaniel eating a large dinner roll,) Tatiana Rodriguez (terrier mix wearing an Elizabethan collar,) Joshua Chun (small dog sitting at a dining room table being served a birthday treat, complete with a candle.)

What all Puppy Owners Should Know

What all new puppy owners should know (Photo: woman holding two sleeping puppies)

Your puppy isn’t a puppy for very long. The puppy stage lasts from birth to roughly six months of age. From six months until one to two YEARS of age, you have an ADOLESCENT. That’s a teenager. 

While they won’t slam doors or tell you that “you’re the worst mom EVER!” they will test you to see if you’re cut out to be their leader or just their littermate. They BITE their littermates, by the way. 

You have six to eight months to treat your puppy like a human baby/teddy bear OR to teach them how to behave calmly and politely in the human world — as a DOG. Most people, sadly, opt for option number one, because it fulfills a void in their lives. 

Whose needs are being met? (Photo: small dog sitting on a lap — dog and owner are wearing the same sweater)

How about in this photo? (Photo: a puppy posed on a bed wearing a white bathrobe and “holding” a bottle of sparkling water)

If you choose option one, your puppy will likely do at least five things off of this list: 

-bite you and your children

-bark at everything 

-cause you joint pain from pulling on walks

-take forever to house train

-scratch up your floors

-counter surf (steal food off of counters) 

-chase your kids, cats, and other pets

-destroy couches, remote controls, shoes, and purses

By the time they reach adolescence, they will be heavier, stronger, and have larger teeth. They will pull harder, bite harder, and those nails sure hurt when they jump up on everyone you know. 

By taking a photo instead of teaching your puppy not to eat the furniture, you are accepting that behaviour as okay. (Photo: Weimaraner puppy gnawing on the corner of a bed)

If instead, you: 

-select a puppy who is the right energy match for you and your family

-set simple boundaries on day ONE of your relationship (when they are still with the breeder) 

-teach your puppy right from wrong on the FIRST day they are in your home (sure that photo of them on your kitchen counter at 8 weeks of age isn’t confusing to them at all, is it?!)

You will enjoy your puppy SO MUCH MORE (not only when they are a puppy, but through adolescence and adulthood.) 

To be clear, I’m not saying never put your dog on your lap or never show it affection. I’m warning the owners who ONLY give affection and NEVER meet their puppies’ needs (exercise, structure, rules, boundaries.) Remember: if you pause to take a photo of your puppy being naughty, you are missing the opportunity to teach them to NEVER do it again. Don’t be confusing to your puppy. It doesn’t make you a nicer pet parent. It makes you confusing.

If you read ANY social media thread where everyone vents about joint pain from pulling on walks, jumping up, counter surfing, destructive behaviour — you will feel like you’re not alone. Here’s the TRUTH — NONE OF THOSE THINGS EVER NEED TO HAPPEN AND I CAN HELP YOU PREVENT THEM ALL! 

Not being cocky. I’m just finally saying this out loud because I am so TIRED of reading threads where people’s answers to counter surfing is COMPRESSED AIR and LOUD NOISES…and their solution to too much barking is THROWING A CAN OF PENNIES NEAR THE DOG TO STARTLE THEM. 

STOP doing that and call me for advice. 

When your puppy reaches adolescence, it’s super common for this to happen: 

“Jenny, sit.” (You’ve taught her to sit in puppy school and she knows what it means…at least, you think she does.) 

Jenny doesn’t sit.

Person repeats the command. “Jenny, sit.” 

Person gets frustrated and either repeats the command louder, yanks the leash, or pushes the dog’s bum down. Sometimes all three. 

Jenny still doesn’t sit. 

Human gives up. Human gives Jenny a treat anyway and pets her (both of these are REWARDS, by the way.) 

Jenny is now the leader because the person didn’t follow through and rewarded noncompliance. 

How to solve this: 

1. Teach your puppy to sit in a variety of different places. If Jenny only knows how to sit in your kitchen when you have a cookie in your hand and are in front of her, she may not actually KNOW what SIT means (the word.) She knows what to do ONLY in your kitchen, when you stand in THAT position, and hold the cookie. Teach Jenny to sit in public places and don’t always stand in the same position. 

2. Change your mindset. Training isn’t WORK. It’s not sitting at a desk being bored all day. It’s fun. It’s active. And you get to spend positive time with your dog.

3. Bring your calm and confident self to the party every single day. This is harder than it sounds, so if you can’t muster it up for yourself on a daily basis, do it for your dog. You’ve got this! 

4. Sit isn’t the most important thing in dog training. Teaching your dog to be calm in public places is way more important. Sit can be taught at any time. It doesn’t have to be the first thing you teach your puppy just because everyone else is doing it. 

5. Learn to be more patient. Saying “sit!” (or, ahem, yelling it) seven times will never work because dogs will not follow humans (or other dogs) who are tense, frustrated, or angry. Go to the gym, practice yoga, or take a long walk BEFORE you interact with your dog. It all begins with YOU. 

It’s not going to get better with time (Photo: man with his hands on his Chow’s throat. The Chow is showing off his blue tongue. The man is wearing a watch.)

It’s not going to get better with time. Your dog doesn’t turn two and magically become a perfect adult dog and “settle down.” 

Every dog is different. Dogs who seem to magically settle down at age two are likely the SAME or LOWER energy level than their owners. The owners likely dedicate a lot of time to training and exercise. They likely worked on their relationship (trust, respect, love) as opposed to simply ALWAYS petting their dog and rewarding hyper behaviour. 

There’s ALSO a temperament test that reputable breeders do to MATCH the right dog to the right family. Dogs fall in a range from 1 (very “drivey” - make great working dogs and show dogs) to #6 (aloof and don’t really require humans all that much.) Some people LUCK out (even without the test) and get a #4. Number 4’s make first-time dog owners look like ROCKSTARS because they are easier to train and eager to please. 

Is there a difference breed to breed? Yes…but this isn’t a novel. It’s a blog post, so I’d better go before you glaze over. 

If you’ve made mistakes (we all have) and want to get some help to stop the jumping up, yanking on the leash, and counter surfing, schedule a FREE call with me. I would LOVE To help you turn your “devil dog” (yes, I just read that on someone’s newsfeed!) into your DREAM DOG! 

Let us help your dog become your DREAM DOG (Photo: woman and dog sitting on a busy beach in the sunshine)

Better yet, I’d love to help you and your family SELECT the right puppy/dog for your family and then help you PREVENT any of the bad stuff from EVER HAPPENING. 

Have an incredible weekend, Dog Leaders! 

Alyssa

Photos by: Anna Dudkova (woman holding two sleeping puppies,) FLOUFFY @theflouffy (small dog sitting on a lap — dog and owner are wearing the same sweater.) Roberto Nickson @rpnickson (a puppy posed on a bed wearing a white bathrobe and “holding” a bottle of sparkling water,) Nathalie SPEHNER @nathalie_spehner (Weimaraner puppy gnawing on the corner of a bed,) Omid Armin @omidarmin (man with his hands on his Chow’s throat. The Chow is showing off his blue tongue,) Alvin Balemesa @alnbal (woman and dog sitting on a busy beach in the sunshine,)

How YOUR Fear Affects YOUR Puppy

Did you KNOW that YOUR fear AFFECTS YOUR puppy? (Photo: pug wrapped in a blanket looking like very sad version of E.T.)

Are you nervous every time your new puppy says hello to a new dog friend? Do you hold your breath, worried that the other dog may hurt your puppy? Do you pull your new puppy away from other dogs? Pick them up? 

Here’s how all of those things are BAD for your puppy. 

FEAR. We live with too much fear. The media spreads it on your morning toast like peanut butter. We’re eating poison for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. If you aren’t fearful from watching the news, you’re afraid because of misinformation you consumed from online dog groups. You’re terrified of parvovirus, dog fights, and of your puppy getting stepped on by other dogs and people. 

If you bring a new puppy into your life and YOU are nervous, tense, and fearful about every interaction she has, she will become your pack leader. Most puppies are not born leaders, so they find this new job VERY stressful. They have to take care of YOU and protect YOU, and while you may feel all warm inside thinking about that — how about you imagine my client who recently allowed all of this behaviour and her puppy ended up biting EVERYONE who came near her. Kiss your family, friends, and dating life goodbye until you FIX what YOU okayed as cute. It’s costly, time consuming, and frustrating. Don’t go there. 

If your dog becomes your body guard, friends and family will have trouble getting close to you (Photo: woman on a couch holding a puppy over her face and kissing it)

The very first thing you need to do before walking your puppy anywhere is BREATHE. You need to be a calm person for your puppy. You need to be a confident person for your puppy. If you can’t do it for yourself, do it for your puppy. They NEED you. You’ve got this! Calmness travels right down your leash — make sure your leash is nice and loose (no tension, no pulling.) 

Before introducing your puppy to other puppies, they should have had their first set of vaccinations. It’s okay to ASK approaching puppy and dog owners “Is your dog vaccinated?” BEFORE their dog is nose-to-nose with your puppy. Your puppy doesn’t have enough immunity yet — advocate for your puppy! 

Do NOT take your new puppy to a dog park. There will certainly be dogs who are not up to date in their vaccinations present. Dogs shed all sorts of things in their poop as well, so a sick dog doesn’t need to be present to make your puppy sick. Before this becomes a dog park blog post, I’ll say one more thing — most of the time, dog parks are full of dogs who are WAY too excited/aroused and excitement leads to dog fights.

Are dog parks safe for new puppies? That’s a no. (Photo: Pekingese dog stares through a fence)

Do NOT pick your puppy up EVERY time they meet a new dog. This is VERY DANGEROUS! Your puppy will learn that dogs make YOU nervous, and will defend you by growling down at other dogs. Some dogs won’t care. Some will. Those dogs can go after your puppy and your fingers will be right in the way. 

Dogs are not human babies. Cuddling is lovely, but be very careful doing this around dogs you don’t know. (Photo: woman cuddling a beagle while holding him like a baby)

Do NOT pull your puppy away from every dog you meet. Putting tension on the leash sends the wrong signal to your puppy. They pull against what holds them back. It frustrates them and tells them “It’s go time!” They will keep pulling toward the dog you are trying to pull them away from. 

Instead, encourage your puppy to follow you away from dogs you don’t want to meet. Ask them to heel (if they know how,) or make a kissy noise to encourage them to look at you. Walk away with NO leash tension. You don’t have to meet and greet every dog you pass by. 

This is leash tension. Please stop doing this. (Photo: a dog on a leash with tension on the leash)

If you gasp every time your puppy meets/plays with a new dog (even YOUR own other dogs at home,) you are sending out a strong message to all of them that you are nervous and they have to sort it out ON THEIR OWN. Your own dog doesn’t want that pressure, and your new puppy certainly isn’t equipped to handle that either. Take a deep breath, relax your shoulders, stand straighter and BELIEVE that nothing bad with happen. You need to provide direction and protection for your new puppy. You WANT them to look at you before making terrible puppy decisions. 

Do NOT replay stories in your head about dog fights you have seen in the past. That happened BEFORE. You are here today in the PRESENT. 

Do NOT think “If my puppy gets stomped on or bitten, I’ll have to go to the vet and it’s after hours, so it’ll be closed and what will I do?” This is in the FUTURE. It hasn’t happened, so don’t worry about it. 

Living in the moment is the BEST gift your puppy could EVER give to you. Let them be your teacher, but NOT your leader. 

It’s okay to need help. If you’re nervous about introducing your puppy to other dogs, seek help from an expert. Read reviews before just selecting a random puppy kindergarten class. I’ve heard many horror stories from clients who went down this road before finding me. Some “trainers” will actually say “Let the puppies work it out on their own.” If you think the play is too rough, it probably is. Follow your gut instinct and leave (better yet read EVERY Google review BEFORE you sign up, and go attend a class before you even have your puppy…oh, and if a company won’t let you come for a drop in visit BEFORE you have your puppy, they don’t deserve your business. Shady with a capital S. 

Our in-home sessions provide help in the areas YOU need it. If you’ve aced crate training, but are struggling with leash walks, that is where we will focus our attention. If you’re nervous because your puppy whines and pulls toward other dogs, we’ll help you through it. 

While we’re exploring your neighbourhood together, we’ll teach you how to read approaching dogs, so you can understand dog body language and know which dogs will be well-behaved while greeting your new puppy, and which ones are too excited. Come learn with us! 

Are these three ready to meet your puppy? Come learn with us! (Photo: three dogs on leash)

Before you schedule a FREE call with us, read all of our reviews too. Check out our TESTIMONIALS page here: https://beyonddogtraining.ca/testimonials

Find the BEST fit for YOU and YOUR PUPPY. We hope it’s us, because you read the entire blog post and that means you have patience (even if you never realized you had it!) We can’t WAIT to meet you and your puppy and help your relationship become harmonious! 

Have a wonderful weekend, Dog Leaders! 

Alyssa

Photos by: Matthew Henry (pug wrapped in a blanket looking like very sad version of E.T.,) Roberto Nickson (woman on a couch holding a puppy over her face and kissing it,) Marcelo Harassen (Pekingese dog stares through a fence,) Artem Beliaikin (woman cuddling a dog while holding him like a baby,) Mirko Sajkov (a dog on a leash with tension on the leash,) and Spencer Davis (three dogs on leash.)

ONLINE DOG TRAINING

How does online dog training work? (Photo: dog looking at a computer screen)

You may be curious about how online dog training works. How can a trainer possibly fix your dog’s resource guarding issues from thousands of miles away?

And how are they going to get the sock out of Sandy’s mouth when they’re not physically here?!

Beyond Dog Training introduced online training long before the pandemic began. We’ve worked with clients in the USA, UK, and Canada, helping dogs and their people overcome difficult issues, like biting strangers, resource guarding, and house-breaking. 

How do we do it? 

How can I stand in my kitchen in Ontario, Canada and help a dog in California, USA stop nipping friends and family? How can I stop your dog in Scotland from playing keep-away and learn to drop it? 

Do I have a magic wand? 

Is it magic? (Photo: magic wand on a book)

No. 

It comes down to one word: 

Education. 

If you’re still reading, you’re like many of my clients who are unafraid of learning and even (gasp!) taking notes. These clients are curious about dog behaviour. They want to understand WHY their dog is biting everyone who tries to pet her, and they want the tools to FIX it. 

These clients have joined online dog groups and have been frustrated by all of the conflicting opinions (from dog owners, not dog behaviour experts.) 

These clients have searched through dozens of Youtube videos, only to find that all the trainers use different methods and none of them help THEIR dog’s individual needs. 

Does it feel like you spend more time on Youtube searches to HELP your dog, than you actually spend WITH your dog? (Photo: woman with a cup of tea searches the internet)

If you’re looking for the tools to help you help your dog and need someone to teach them to you one-on-one, online sessions are for you. 

If you want someone to watch you interact with your dog in real time and then give you the tips you need on the spot, online sessions are for you. 

If you are a visual learner, online sessions are for you. 

Want to teach your dog “drop it,” “leave it,” or how to walk nicely on the leash? I’ll show you with my dog and then watch you practice with your own dog. 

In many ways online training is actually BETTER than in person because you have the added benefit of seeing the possibilities. You can SEE how a dog should behave before leaving her crate (calm,) when asked to leave a high-value butcher bone (responds immediately by walking away,) and around a playful cat (calm.)

You can see how to safely remove a food dish from a dog. You can learn how to stop your dog from stealing food off the countertop. You can find out how to get your dog to stop barking when someone rings the doorbell. 

Not only can you SEE what a calm, relaxed, and well-behaved dog looks like, you can practice right away with your own dog! 

So, you can practice asking your dog to get off of the couch and get immediate feedback from a behaviourist. It’s like watching a Youtube video that’s made just for YOU! 

It’s like watching a Youtube video that’s made just for YOU! (Photo: cat looking up at a dog)

Online dog training also allows clients to really focus on the task at hand. My online clients show up with their dog, a notepad, and a desire to learn. 

Do you HAVE to be a note-taker to benefit from online training? 

No. 

I’ve had online clients who have worked hands-on with their dog the entire time. Everyone’s learning style is different — and that is where Beyond Dog Training really shines. 

My background is education. Most, but not all of this, has been teaching veterinary students, undergraduates, and PhD candidates at the University of Guelph about everything from puppy socialization to how to give physical exams to dogs (and other species as well.) 

I’ve also taught in kindergarten classrooms, rock climbing gyms, and continuing education classrooms — ages four to eighty-four. 

I thrive on helping people reach THEIR goals. I don’t offer one-size-fits-all-dog training — the sessions are all unique because they are driven by YOU and your goals. 

If you’re struggling with a particular style of training, have had a trainer bad-mouth you and your dog when their ONLY method of training fails you and your dog, or you’re just tired of being confused, I’m likely the person who can help you succeed. 

Make sure we’re the right fit with a FREE phone call. Call LOTS of trainers and behaviourists and get a feel for them (their personality AND their training style.) You want to make the best choice for you and your dog. Training is expensive. Many of my new clients have spent hundreds (sometimes more) on dog training classes and in-home sessions that didn’t get them results. Take your time and check trainers out before committing to working with them. 

Schedule your free call today. 

Schedule your FREE phone call with Beyond Dog Training today! (Photo: happy woman grins at her cellphone)

What are YOUR goals? Post them in the comments below. I would love to hear what you would like to see more of. 

Have a fabulous Friday, Dog Leaders! 

Alyssa

Photos by: Kyle Hanson (dog looking at a computer screen,) Kenny Gaines (magic wand on a book,) Dai KE (woman with a cup of tea searches the internet,) Anusha Barwa (cat looking up at a dog,) Owen Beard (happy woman grins at her cellphone.)

HOW TO STOP BACKYARD BARKING

Frustrated by your dog’s backyard barkathon? Read on. (Photo: pitbull mix barking at a chainlink fence)

You’re in your backyard. You have a glass of wine and a new novel. Or perhaps it’s a workday and you would love nothing more than to create an outdoor office space. 

Your dog has different ideas. 

Your backyard backs onto a walking path. Dogs and people parade past at all hours. Your dog sprints to the fence every time someone passes by. 

People give you that “why’s your dog a psycho?” look. 

Look familiar? This makes Zoom meetings tough! (Photo: Boxer on guard looking out a window — standing ON the couch)

And then there’s the people passing the FRONT of the house. Your dog barks at them too, even though he can’t SEE them. He charges to your side gate and shows his nasty side. 

An hour later, you’re still on page one of your book, or looking at the email you were typing for work. Half of a sentence and a blinking cursor. 

“Why is HE so crazy?” you think. 

First of all, let’s stop labelling the dog. He’s not crazy. Let’s figure out WHY he’s barking so much. 

Some people believe that you can simply IGNORE a dog’s bad behaviour and that it will go away. This is FALSE. If you simply allow your dog to charge fences and bark and NEVER interrupt that behaviour, it will continue to happen. 

I recently had the opportunity to learn from renowned trainer Joel Silverman. During a live interview, he said it best: “The completion of a behaviour IS the reward.” 

What does that mean? It means that fence running and barking feels awesome to your dog and EVERY time they do it is a reward to them. Just finishing the task of fence-barking is reward enough to them. 

Why yelling at your dog never works: When you yell “Hugo! Quiet. Please stop barking. HEY! AH AH! Get over here,” you are joining in the barkfest. Dog behaviour issues are rarely solved with SOUND. Think of a mother dog. She gives many SILENT signals and warnings to her puppies when she’s teaching manners. She rarely has to growl at them. 

How many of your human relationships are improved by yelling? It doesn’t work with dogs either. 

Shouting at dogs never works. (Photo: man yelling into cellphone)

If you’re struggling with fence barking, don’t yell. You’ll have to turn down your frustration dial to ZERO too, or you’ll never fix the problem. Dogs will not listen to people who are frustrated, angry, tense, nervous, or fearful. Also, if your dog doesn’t listen to you INSIDE the home, they definitely won’t listen to you OUTSIDE the home. Outside has WAY more distractions than inside. So, if you’re going to solve the fence barking issue, you’ll need to start asking  your dog to listen to you inside your home first. 

Drain your dog’s excess energy before you begin training. Do you want an exhausted dog? No. You want a fulfilled dog. If your dog is very high energy, take them for a bike ride, rollerblade, run, or fetch session. If your dog is medium energy, they may only require a thirty minute walk instead of a run. Be sure that the walks you are taking are structured, because if they’re not, then that is just one more activity you’re doing that is cementing in a dog who doesn’t listen to anything you say. They shouldn’t be zigzagging in front of you, or yanking you toward everything they want to smell. 

Exercise your dog before your training session. Don’t exhaust them, find the sweet spot. (Photo: German Shepherd running through autumn leaves)

If you never walk your dog it will be VERY challenging for you to stop fence barking. They require daily exercise. Pent up energy from never being walked comes out in ways people don’t like (barking, sock stealing, chewing, etc.) 

Dogs also require mental stimulation. This can be achieved in loads of fun and creative ways. I like nosework because it’s fun and dogs love it too! You can hide their food around your home and encourage them to sniff it out. I like to hide Magic’s food inside toys, underneath towels, and in cardboard boxes. 

Notice how we aren’t standing at the fence and yelling right now? This is more fun, isn’t it? 

Dogs are a JOY. When we provide them with exercise, leadership, and love, they give us their trust, respect, and love in return. 

If you aren’t providing them with what THEY need, they won’t provide you with backyard silence. 

If your dog barks inside when people pass the front of the house, this is a great opportunity for YOU to practice calmness. It is a GREAT teaching moment for your dog. It’s all mindset. 

Walk to YOUR front door with confidence. Ask your dog to back up using only your body language (stand tall and point, snap your fingers once if you need to.) They won’t know what you’re doing the first time, so you may have to provide another command, like “Bed,” or “Place,” to send them to a place they are comfortable. Remember to reward that behaviour verbally. “Good bed,” or “Good place.” 

Don’t forget to praise GOOD behaviour. How else will your dog know what behaviour you DO like? (Photo: dog laying on his bed calmly.)

Tips and Tricks: Chewing a delicious bone is a great activity that your dog will enjoy. Most dogs will happily leave the door barking activity to return to their yummy bone. You may need to repeat this door claiming activity many, many times (especially if your dog has been practicing this for many, many years.) Stick to it and remember that you need to LEAD your dog ALL DAY EVERY DAY in order for them to view you as a leader. You can’t simply own the front door of your house and solve all the problems. You need to claim your backyard fence, your space, your kitchen counters, your kid’s socks, your dog toys, your furniture, and your cats. Your dog doesn’t own these things and doesn’t need to protect them 24-7 — YOU DO. 

When your dog is listening to you inside your home (when you say “off,” they get off the couch; when you say “leave it,” they don’t touch the food that has fallen onto the floor) try claiming your backyard fence, the same way you claimed the front door. This lets your dog know that you are responsible for the yard and his job is to relax, play, or nap. 

Lead on, Dog Leaders! And have a wonderful weekend! 

Alyssa

Osvaldo Florez (pitbull mix barking at a chainlink fence,) Nathalie SPEHNER (Boxer on guard looking out a window,) christian buehner (man yelling into cellphone,) tiim (German Shepherd running through autumn leaves,) and Matthew Hamilton (dog laying on his bed calmly.)